Three days in Adelaide 21- 23 September 2026

I was up at 4am to catch my first Uber to the Perth airport. We only ran one red light, which gave me and the driver a big fright. Luckily, there was no other traffic at that intersection. Note to self: Don’t talk to Uber drivers as they can get distracted by my interesting conversation at 4 in the morning.

I flew on the budget airline,Virgin, so there was no in-flight entertainment screen and no food.  However, the coffee and water were sufficient, as it was only a 2.5-hour flight. So I slept and detoxed from screen life, making up for my early rise.

I caught a bus into the city alighting with a young woman from England, who was going to the same hostel as me. I immediately put her in charge of directions and we walked and talked the 3 blocks to the Tequila Sunrise Hostel.

I know some of my followers have never stayed in a hostel, and some definitely have no ambition to ever do so.  But if you are curious  here are some details, FYI

For $49 AUD a night, and I have my own sleeping pod in a 12 pod room. My pod is a nice cosy space with a fan, light, plenty of shelves, high enough to comfortably sit up, and plenty long enough for tall people. In the room, there are shoe  lockers and an underbed  storage box  that is as long as the bed, so it easily fits my pack.

I hardly saw any of my roommates, and the only snorer had a lovely rhythm that reminded me of Garry’s snoring, so I was lulled to sleep, remembering that today is 21 years since he died. I wonder  if I would have been doing these long walks with him. 

Included in the $49 is dinner and breakfast. So at 6.45pm, there is 160 hungry backpackers lined up for dinner. There is plenty of good basic food and enough for seconds and to pack for lunch the next day.   The food arrives fresh each day and is prepared in the communal kitchen by the staff who are  backpackers who were staying here.

Breakfast was a choice of 6 different cereals a variety of yoghurts milks ,  fresh fruit toast and spreads.  Ham cheese, toastues, pancakes,orange juice, many flavours of tea, coffee.   It’s fantastic.

The place was alive and buzzing because of the shared meals, in contrast with some hostels i’ve stayed at over the last few years where the people are all sitting around on their phones not interacting with each other.  This was really great to see young people interacting and enjoying a company of eachother.

I needed to buy some Easiyo yoghurt powder to mix with my muesli on the trail.  It proved quite a difficult job being a city supermarket, and not selling such things. I went out to suburban shopping center on the bus 3.8k’s.  I didn’t have any even thoughi had rung up and was told they stocked it.  On arrival, I hear yes they do stock it, however, it is out of stock today… then it’s 3.8k, walk back into town as the next bus is not for an hour and I am not good at waiting.

So the next day, I walk 5.5km out to another shopping center where I was lucky enough to get what I needed. The bus back at an 18 minute wait, I thought, well  walk, get some training in  I can’t walk 4 or 5K around  town how am I going to walk eight hundred kilometres on the trail.

Walking through a city is the best way to see it and get a feel for the people who live there. The locals are either all very healthy and happy people or the exact opposite. I walked past places to get your feet fixed, your back fixed, your teeth,  eyes and hands sorted. Every one of your bits would feel wonderful after visiting every business along this road. There was even a couple of Adult Shops for those other bits! 

Along with those, I came across numerous places to fix your mental health and well-being.  Yoga retreats, massage parlors, hypnotherapy, couples therapy, youth counseling, and everything you could need to fix any number of problems a person could have.

Adelaide ciyy centre is typical of any major city in the world. There is a mixture of old and new buildings  with buses and trams to get around, and the  main part of the city is grided, so it’s easy relatively easy not to get lost.

I went to the museum which was interesting full of big stuffed animals and lots of Aboriginal history and artifacts. 

I had a quick run around  the Art Gallery (I am not very art) and the library. The library was really lovely.

And that is Art, not the museum
That is what I might look like at the end of this damn long walk

I also went and got my tramping haircut, which cost me $75, but I won’t need another one of those for 6 or 8 weeks. The hairdresser was a chatty lady who arrived from Vietnam as an 11 year old just after the war. She  bemoaned her entitled kids who couldn’t understand what the difference between wants and needs were.

I had a couple of purchases to make, gas bottle, lighter and I found a new bumper bag that will work better than my Dad’s one that i have been using.  The guy in the shop commented that mine looked like something straight out of the ’80s, which is probably quite accurate. We cringed at the photos of Dad on his travels from back at that time with his bum bag. But it has lasted the test of time.

I, sadly, put it in the “Free stuff” box at the hostel, and it was gone the next morning.  I wonder if it was a collector of vintage artifacts or a backpacker who would actually use it and jeep it traveling.

Heysen Trail

After spending a very sedate 6 months back home in New Zealand and in Western Australia working for at my cousins’ Mining Camp I have got fat and lazy so and in need of a good DamnLongWalk.

So next week I am off to walk the Heysen Trail in South Australia. It is 1,200km long (about 60 days ), however I will probably be locked out at around 800km mark because the trail will close for the bush fire season. I am starting at the southern end, Cape Jarvis and will head along the coast then up through the vineyards areas of the Adelaide Hills, then on up past Port Augusta. After that the trail goes through some remote desert areas and the Flinders Ranges which close as the weather gets hotter. I will need to come back and do those parts when I am not at risk of getting burnt to death.

I have bought a new Big Agnes tent and am excited to see how well this provides me with a home for the next couple of months. Hopefully it is snake, spider and kangaroo proof. Other than that I am taking my usual gear.

My body is feeling old a creaky so I will be making a slow start. I am sure it will be a shock to my system but must be done! Come along with me online if you please.

6 Day Cruise along the coast of Norway. 15-20 August 2024

Who would watch videos of sinking cruise ships when on a cruise in the Arctic? The answer is probably only Karen Griffiths.

I couldn’t fault the food, the company, and the decor. However, it was all a bit boring for me. I am not really the type who enjoys the same routine of walking around a boat, then eating tiny plates of food, followed by another walk around the boat, then eating more lovely food, walking again, around the boat, in the opposite direction for a change, then eating some more equisite little dishes of food. To top it off, I couldn’t even have a couple of drinks with eat meal and get slowly meery as thd day dragged on because the alcohol was way out of my miserly budget.

As this wasn’t a huge  cruise ship, there weren’t any bands,   swimming pools, cabarets, casinos, massage parlors, or strip shows to provide me with  entertainment or distraction to reduce the monotony.

Also, I have been spoilt living in New Zealand and with some of the traveling that I have done in the past. The fjords in New Zealand are just as beautiful as here. Everyone is going “ooh” and “aah”  but I felt a bit sad that I was not so readily impressed. I did try hard to disguise my lack of interest by chatting to anyone who looked likely to listen to my steady stream of discourse.

I really needed some action, something to pull me out of the doldrums, so I spent time in my cabin watching  YouTube videos of cruise ship disasters, and there are a lot of them.  I deduced that the odds  of hitting something and sinking were relatively low but if it happened there was a high chance that it  would add a bit of variety to my day, even if it meant the possibility of me drowning in the Arctic Circle. At least it would be a good story for my family to tell, and there would be a payout from my travel insurance. I deserved at least that.

My decision to take the cruise was a last minute one so while in England, I had spent many furiating hours, on the phone, in the middle of the night, because of the time difference, trying to get 12 days in Norway added to my policy. Numerous times, I went through the damn automated system telling them my full name, date of birth, policy number, phone number, and what I wanted, only to be told that someone would get back to me sometime between 48 hours and a week. I was leaving in less than 48 hours. So I rang the Emergency number, went through the same questions with no extra ones to determine the nature of the emergency, and then I received the same answer. Wait up to a week.  Too bad if you were ringing to request permission to get treatment for the heart attack you were having, as the policy requires you to do. You may well be dead before they manage to return the call.

Our boat 🚢

When I eventually managed to speak to a human, he gave me the same spiel until I lost the plot and finally made him realise that I needed this done NOW. Hence, I felt like I deserved to be able to get a claim from the insurance, even if it meant I had to spend my last 6 hours on a sinking ship to get through to them.

Checking out the policy, I saw that they would pay for a funeral and cremation or burial, in the area where I died, or, alternatively, they will pay to send my body home to New Zealand, but not stump up for the funeral. This means  my kids would have some big decisions to make in the event of my demise while traveling, and that is only if they have the patience to get through to the insurance company to start with. I was thinking maybe I should just stay in my cabin when the ship is sinking, so I have a  burial at sea to save them the hassle.

I amused myself for quite some time checking out the lifeboats, where to find the survival suits and life jackets, how to put them on properly, and the best way to ensure my survival. I packed a few important things like my passport, visa card,  toothbrush, phone and charger, a change of undies, and a pair of good warm woolen socks into a drybag. I reckoned I could slip that inside my survival suits to get around the rule that you can’t take any luggage onto the lifeboat. That all got my adrenaline going and filled in some time.

Fishing boats

For some reason, my dinner mates were not interested in the details of the latest video I had watched, even if 120 people had died.

Some info on the cruise

  • 6 days
  • Aboard cruise ship Havila Pollux, built 2023
  • Max 640 passengers but only about half full
  • 1,600km trip
  • NZ$ 2,112
  • All meals included
  • NZD$24 for a beer or wine
  • Started Kirkenes, near Russian Border
  • Finished in Bergen.
  • 33 ports visited, some for pick up and drop off only, others 3-4 hour stop
  • Excursions daily, very expensive
  • The only excursion I did was  to Torghatten, the hill with the hole through it. Costing 1 471NOR  or NZ$235 for a 30 minute bus ride, walk 20 minutes up some steps to a hole in an impressive hill then back down again, an on to the bus back.
A hole in a hill

I did get off at each port when we stopped for more than an hour, to walk around the village or town. They were all very pretty and clean and tidy, mostly just fishing ports  or larger towns and cities servicing the area.

A night stop
Busy port
Typical house

There was a daily talk about local customs, culture, food, etc. I learned about the  Vikings (blood thirsty savages) , the salmon industry, the history of the coastal route, and  the trolls (dangerous, stupid evil giants).

A troll

I do wonder how the Norwegians have developed to be polite and kind with a love of the outdoors and the environment. They value their independance and have a high standard of living and an advanced social welfare system. So the  trolls and Vikings can’t have all been bad.

At the completion of the cruise, I spent a couple of days in Bergen, a lovely city surrounded by 7 mountains and the sea. I walked up one mountain and visited some museums and did some people watching, which is always interesting.

Not much of a view after 1,333 steps!

I flew onto Oslo, the capital city, and had a day where I just hung out at my hostel reading a book. The rain was coming down in bucket loads, and I didn’t find anything worth going out for. Maybe I was a bit tired from the late nights watching YouTube?  I was feeling a bit pathetic to tell the truth.

On 24 August, I flew to Heathrow, London, leaving Norway now understanding why it gas the second highest quality of life in the world.

Nice hostel in Bergen
Reindeer and whale meat
Fast trains

Day 1 To Russia and onto  cruise ship

A banana squashed into to a fresh baguette was my breakfast on the way to be picked up for my tour to the Russian border.

We drove to the terminal to pick up some people from the Havila, my cruise boat. As I waited watching the passengers disembark I thought, “Oh, no, they are all old. No-one is carrying a backpack.” Maybe old and a big wheelie bag means rich?

Then I remembered that I was now officially old even if I am carrying a backpack. That  probably  indicates that I am not rich.

The port

Originally from France, the tour guide had been living in Kerkenes for 20 years. I learned that winter lasts 8 months and, interestingly, that the original town was all on the hills. The flat part was reclaimed from the sea mostly by the Germans during WW2 to enable their ships filled with soldiers, supplies, and machinery to dock.

The town was completely rebuilt after the war using shiploads of kitset houses from Sweden. Hence, the nicknames for the area is Ikea.  All the houses are the same, but some have made alterations since, especially to the insulation as the original ones were not designed for winters above the Arctic Circle.

Ikea houses

No additional houses have been  ever been built in the town area, so any new builds are some distance out of the town. There is no infill housing here.

He gave us a good run down of the history, much of which I have forgotten already. It included Vikings but no Trolls. The indigenous people are the Sami and they own all the reindeer. They were originally nomadic people who followed the reindeer across the Arctic area in line with the seasons

But now that there are  borders in place, they settle within a country, either Finksnd  Norway or Russia. The reindeers knows not to cross the borders as the knowledge is passed down the generations. Maybe the young are told about Great Granny, who went across the border and was made into Reindeer Stroganoff, rather than Norwegian hamburgers.

Reindeer just wandering along the motorway

Then we drove to the end of a gravel road to a border with Russia.

I am not going anywhere near those poles

The two coloured poles mark the borders. They are only 4 metres apart at this point, so the No Man’s land is very narrow. Yesterday, 2 Germans took photos of each other standing on the Russian side and leaning on the Russian pole.  Very quickly, the Norwegian police were there arresting them.  They have a huge fine to pay and will probably be prevented from traveling to most countries from now on. Idiots.

We also went to the official border crossing to Russia, which is the only border open into Russia at this time because of the current war with Ukraine.  Russians can come over to visit relatives for the day only.

Norwegians have been asked not to cross into Russia and apparently, they always do as they are told.

I was delivered to my boat about an hour before departure on my 6 day cruise through the fjords of Norway. Norway has the 2nd longest coastline in the world. 103,000km compared with New Zealand of 15,134km and Australia with 25,760km. Ten points if you know which country has the longest coastline.

I was feeling quite excited and pleased to see that the ocean was calm.

And I am off

Last night I watched a few videos about cruise ship disasters, so I am well prepared in case anything untoward happens. I don’t like cold water, so  I will let off my PLB and see if New Zealand will send me a helicopter, seeing as I have Frequent Flyer status.

Norway 13 August 2024

Laura dropped me at Manchester Airport with tears in my eyes. Again, I think Garry should have been here to see his daughter now  a 40 year old woman driving confidently around the busy motorways and cities of England.

Manchester airport is a bit tired looking and very crowded, but I made my way to my gate without any hitches.

My plane (Not the British SAS)

I sat in the very last row of the plane with a handsome young man from Manchester  who was very eager to tell me all about his job as a marine engineer on a £200 million  Super Yacht, that is owned by  Mr Simony from Microsoft. Having completed his time on an oil wanker, he wanted something better. And he has definitely found it! The boat owner was 85 and married, so I decided not to ask if there were any jobs going.

Two flights, first to Oslo the capital of  Norway for a quick change, then 3 hours to Kirkenes which is right at the top of Norway, close to the Russian border.

The bus station was at the door: $24 for a 40-minute ride into Kirkenes.  15°C

They drive on the other side of the road which I hadn’t expected. Note to self: look again before crossing.

Hostel is a bit tired too, but  I have an ensuite  room to myself and clean sheets, so nothing to be concerned about. It is called the Barents Breakfast hotell on the websitev but there is no breakfast.

I was hungry as I had had no food since my cucumber and fried potatoes breakfast with Laura and a banana and an apple at Oslo airport, which cost $3.20.

9.30pm, still daylight, so I dropped my bag and went for a wander. Nothing open except posh hotel, so I spent about $45 on a very nice reindeer hamburger and chips.

Went back to my room and did of bit of research about this area.

Another note to self:  All the major predators can be found here, and luckily, I didn’t become their dinner as I went searching for my dinner.  There are about 20 known brown bears in the area, and  Kirkenes is also the home of Wolverine and Lynx. Wolves are observed on rare occasions, but these are only stray animals coming from Russia.

The only bear I saw

Being in the Arctic Circle this area is covered with deep snow for most of the year, but the sun was out as it is mid summer and 24°. There is a Snow Hotel here which I didn’t visit.

Air raid shelter

On the next  day I visited the Museum and found out that Germany invaded Norway in April 1940 and had a huge military build-up in this town ready for its campaign against the Soviet Union. This upset the Russians so Kirkenes became the  2nd most bombed place in the war. 3,000 locals lived in a large underground bunker under their mountain. 10 babies were born underground , and 3 people died. 

Most of the buildings in the town were ruined, and the Germans set up awful prisoners of war camps in the area.

Looking at the buildings here now, I don’t think they had a lot of money to rebuild.  I noticed that the buildings are very  plain and functional compared to the UK, which is full of  very ornate buildings.  Maybe they won’t want snow piling up on their gargoyles. I was reminded of Lhasa in Tibet.

Apparently people are not permitted to enter Norway on foot. They thought this rule would keep out the rif Raf backpackers (like me) and any refugees. So, a 🚲  company set up on the Russian side  selling cheap bikes with no gears or brakes. Thousands of Syrian refugees have cycled across into Norway and more recently 33,000 from Ukraine. Their bikes end up in the tip as they need to have brakes to be ridden here.

The earlier history of Norway is all about fighting and squabbling over land. The Vikings and came from Norway. Iron Ore and oil have provided wealth.

I had a whole day wandering around but saw very few people, the place seems deserted, sad and lonely. I booked a bus tour for the morning to go to the Russian border. Russia is at war with Ukraine but there hasn’t been any action this far up north. I will be on my best behavior  .

Sunset over the fjords

Final Day of Norfolk Coastal Walk and Family time

My walk for the day was only 2km so I took my time and enjoyed walking past more holiday parks and beach promenades then into Cromer. The end for me.

Cliff Walk
Holiday Park

Interesting Fact 1: Albert Einstein fled the Nazis in 1933 and lived in a small hut near Cromer.

Interesting Fact 2: Cromer is the only place in Europe that has an opera house at the end of a pier. The opera singer who I met a couple of days previously had told me about it. So I made a point of finding it.

Theatre on the pier
Lines of beach huts at Cromer

The sea wall is failing, so there was work being done to strengthen it. I watched the diggers for ages and learned that barges arrive at high tide and dump off the huge rocks that come from Scotland. There must be a massive hole where they came from, and I wonder what they do with that.  I hope Scotland gets paid well for their rocks.

Busy little diggers

I sent a video home to my grandson, Finn, who loves diggers. I felt a bit homesick.

The end of my Norfolk Coastal Walk

And there I was at the finish line of the Norfolk Coastal Path. No fan fare at all, and I must admit that this had been my easiest damn long walk ever. To be fair, it was only 75km and totally flat, so shouldn’t have proved to be a challenge for me.

After a late breakfast at Costa, I popped into the library to use the toilet and found out about Norfolks queer, disabled geologist, and philanthropist.  I guarantee that this description wasn’t used in her lifetime from 1795 to 1857.

I walked out to the zoo where I had arranged a rendezvous with my cousin , Donna.

Donna hails from New Zealand  but has her three grown children and  3 grandchildren  living in UK so she moved over to be close to them.  They live in the  Broads area of Norwich whuch us well known for all the water that hangs around.

Another Kiwi cousin, Monique, came up from London for a few days with us all. So we had a full house.

I had a week here enjoying the family,  healthy food, outings, good conversation, and a few jobs about the house.

I was sad to leave, but I had finally planned my final three weeks in this part of the world.

I had a train journey booked that included 5 different trains over the course of the day, breaking the trip into short sections and the chance to check out 6 different stations.

Wroxton – Norwich – Peterborough  – Doncaster – Manchester – Lancaster. Whew!!

I stayed for a couple of nights with old travel friends, Mel and Sandra. We met back in 2006 in Nepal and walked the Annapurna Circuit  and traveled to Tibet together. In 2007 I spent spent time with them.walking in UK

They are both 79 years old and they remember more names and details about our travels than I did.

We had a day out hunting for flowers with another of their friends.

We won the pub quiz with very little help from me.

Day 4 – 29 July

I woke early with the birds who were fighting in the trees beside my tent.  I was glad it had been daylight since 4.30 am because I think I might have been frightened by awake by them crashing into my tent if it was dark. It’s funny how the dark heightens our senses, which is really silly as darkness, itself,  can’t actually hurt anyone.

So I checked my route for the day. It was only a short days walk from my finish at point Cromer, and I wasn’t expected there until the day after today. So I decided to stay on another day here.

When the camp owner surfaced at 9 am, I asked if I could please stay another night, as I was ahead of schedule.

  “No, you have to leave” she said “I won’t have backpackers here for more than one night.” At first I thought she was joking but then I saw her face. She was looking at me in disgust as though I was some sort of smelly tramp. To be fair, I probably am sort of smelly and have been tramping around the country for 8 weeks now, but I can’t see that I would be a problem.

But I just said “Okay, thanks for your lovely camp.   I will pack up and go”. This is what I did, so I was on the road heading towards the beach at 10 am.

I wasn’t looking forward to more walking on stones so was pleasantly surprised to see that coastal cliffs were beckoning.  The breeze was nice as it was 22°.

Cliff top walk today

The views were a welcome change from the marshes of the previous couple of days. I entered the Sheringham Park which is owned by the National Trust. The Sheringham Hall is privately leased ( no doubt by wealthy people). Within the grounds you can do everything from sunset bat walks to garden walks and it is a two pawprint rated place.

These places have water bowls, dog bins and dog-friendly walks. You’ll be able to take your dog into some areas, but not everywhere. If there’s a food and beverage outlet, you can have a cup of tea with them, probably outside. 

I didn’t visit.

Sherinham Park gardens

Of course there were many  dog walkers and a golf course.

The golf course had the first hill of this walk, and at the top was a Coast Guard tower.

I popped in and had a good half-hour lesson on the job of a volunteer Coast Guard. He pointed out the four big windfarms out at sea, although I could only see the closest one with 85 turbines, with more being built. We logged a huge, luxury private vessel as it went past and saw a few lobster and crab boats.

I arrived in Sheringham, a village of about 8,000 people and probably as many dogs. This will do me for the day, I thought, but a check on the internet showed that the camp grounds here were full up. It is the height of summer and there are 65 million people in this little country, all on their summer jollies.

Friendly Coast Guard
A pond for model boats

I found a pitch up the road about 4km at East Runton Beach. £19.04. Why the 4 pence???

As it was only midday I found the high street and weaved my way through the throngs of holiday makers to the Sainsbury Local shop where I found a nice (old)  salad, a pottle of coleslaw, a banana and 4 bread rolls for £4.55. (About NZD$10)  Bargain! Lunch and dinner sorted.

The shops sold the usual array of buckets and spades,  although the beaches are all pebbles that don’t make very good sandcastles. I think there were more people in the Arcades and ice cream parlors than swimming at the beach, but one needs to have the whole seaside holiday experience.

A very busy place

I ate my salad rolls, and  then went for a giant coffee at Costa. I should have taken a loyalty card as  most of my coffees have been at a Costa Cafe. I am sure I would be entitled to a free coffee by now.

I wandered down to the beach and found  seat next to local granny who was looking after her daughters 2 dogs while they had their last week away before their first baby was born. The granny said she was looking forward to having a real grandchild to look after rather than the 2 silly little spoilt dogs.

Tops off as the sun is out

2pm and it was time to head to my home for the night, but I came across the Lifeguard museum that looked very interesting. I had been putting my small change of  pennies and 5 pence in the donation  boxes all along the coast, mainly because I didn’t want to carry any extra weight, rather than thinking I would need a sea rescue.

Anyway, the elderly gentleman at the counter picked up on my accent and proceeded to give me a blow by blow account of his recent trip to New Zealand, including to visit a cousin in Palmetston North.

Half an hour later, he wanted to accompany me on my tour of the museum, but I had had enough of him so I told him I didn’t have much time to spare. That got me a half-price  childs ticket and a quick run around on my own. It was very interesting and I wished I had stayed longer.

I started out along The Promenade, which has rows of colorful little beach huts.

I stopped to have a nosey inside of one, this family  had owned theirs  for 5 generations and were not giving it up. All the beach paraphernalia is kept inside them. Others rent them for their holidays.

So they sit outside their little huts in their deckchairs, men shirtless, watching half the  world and their dogs go by.

I must look like someone who likes a chat because they all seemed to hear my conversation with the previous person and wanted to talk about their own connection with New Zealand.

Needless to say, I do like a good chat, so it took me a good hour to get along the promenade and out onto the cliffs.

After an hours walk and I was at the Hilltop Campground, pitching my tent and showering as quickly as I could because I had bought a can of beer at reception and I didn’t want it to warm up.

My tent looked tiny and a wee bit sad next to all the big rigs.

After eating my dinner I popped next door to have a chat with Andrew and Barbara. They had been impressed with my well polished camp setting up. I have done it 100s of times now, so I have it down to a fine art, compared with those who only put their tent up once every couple of years. I have witnessed some interesting examples of the beginnings of the end for some marriages at campgrounds.

My neighbors have outfitted their Mercedes Sprinter themselves and can live off the grid for 7 days. They are ready to take off into the Scottish Highlands when the apocalypse happens. It sounds like a good plan to me.

Day 3 Sunday 28 July A new book and a hitch-hike

I had nearly finished packing up when today’s neighbours offered me some toast and coffee for breakfast, which I gratefully accepted. I had eaten my  muesli with water this morning, so I was grateful for any donations.

It was over an hour before I was on my but I had a full tummy and had learned that Sally and ?Jim had been coming here for over 20 years as had the other couple of visitors at the tent that morning. One of them had written a book about day walks that were accessible from London by train.

Sally and Jim would walk out to the low tide level  and timing it well, would swim in with the tide. That sounded fun.

Sally was reading a book about a woman who had run Te Araroa, and as I was just closing my pack, she came over and gave it to me to read. Good timing as I had finished my book that evening.

She also gave me a flat peach, nicely wrapped in a paper towel. So I left the campground in a really good mood, excited about having a good book, on my favourite topic, to start and a fresh fruit for my lunch.

I always feel  rejuvenating by the company of good people.  I really am an extrovert, and I get my energy from being with other people. Today was going to be good. I had a real spring I in my step.

Being holiday time there was lots of people about so the first part of the day was fun.

Kids catching crabs
Samphire, a delicacy in this area
Lunch stop village

The trail went into the village of Cley next the Sea. I bought some more fruit and wandered about trying g to find a seat in the shade but had no luck. I popped into an antique fair, thinking they would have a seat and maybe a cheap cuppa on offer. But no luck, I just got told off for eating my juicy peaches around their piles of old junk.

One man saw my back pack and thought I would want to spend £3,000 on a diary of a man who had walked a long walk a couple of hundred  years ago. It wasn’t a walk I had done,  the diary was the size of a huge  old family Bible and the handwriting was illegible. I will stick with the book I was given this morning.

The antique fair

I left the little village after finding a seat and reading the first couple of chapters of my new book.

Then the trail went along a stoney beach for the next 6km. That sure took the spring out of my step. It was hard work, sinking ino the stones every step, and I was out of water. So after 3km I found a track out to a village so I took that.

I walked along a narrow winding road full of people heading home after their day out. My life was completely in their hands. I must say that these Brits are very patient and polite on the roads compared to New Zealanders.

When I came to a pub, I decided to try and get a hitch up the road a bit to where I knew there was a campsite.

A couple about my age came out of the pub, so I followed them to their car. Seeing they were heading in my direction, I asked for a ride. The man was really friendly, opening the back door for me to get in. The wife was stonefaced and didn’t say a word. I took the lead from the man and ignored her.

The man told me his daughter had spent a year in NZ hitchhiking around.

  The wife said, “No, she didn’t hitchhike.”

  “Yes, she did,” said the man. “Well, she didn’t tell me,” answered the wife. “

  “Are you surprised?”  I answered, just a wee bit  too quickly. The man smiled at me in the rear vision mirror.

I think that poor man was going to be getting an earfull from her all for the remainder of their journey and probably more.

Huge Sunday roast for £16 at a pub

I rang the campsite and was told off for not booking in advance, even though they had plenty of room. I read the reviews on the campground as I ate my hughe plate of veges and roast at the pub. They all said it was a very clean and tidy place, but no kids allowed, and the owners were very grumpy and sticklers for the rules. So I was not going to be making any noise after 8pm!

My home for the night

£11 and I had a nice Summer House to sit in and charge my phone, so I was happy.

Edinburgh for 5 days and Kay goes home

At the end of the John Muir Way, we caught a bus to Edinburgh and walked about 4km  to the Northumberland hotel. Our packs felt very heavy after 11 days of only carrying our lunch and raincoats.

Our hotel was  a private girls’ school

We wandered the streets for a couple of days together, checking out the National Museum, and walked around the Edinburgh Castle. This castle is used by the Royal Family regularly and holds the Crown Jewels, not the family jewels.

Looking up at the castle
People waiting for the museum to open
Famous wee scotty doggy
The Meadows – an oasis of calm after the busy streets
A NZ Kakapo in the museum
A dead fox in a front garden near our hotel
The same tartan as the kilts we had as kids

I also visited the Surgeons museum which was filled with sample of various body parts, usually diseased or broken. I found it very interesting but I could see some very quesy looking people around.

Who was the Royal Dick? King Richrad maybe?

August is the busy festival month but July was busy enough for us after 6 weeks walking quiet trails.  The city was busy preparing for the 100s of events. Roads were  closed off and scaffolders and people in hi viz clothing were busy working to get the city ready. 

August brings  the famous Edinburgh Tattoo.  It is a  show that us repeated many times through the month and  lasts for two hours, featuring a dynamic blend of Bagpipers, Marching Bands, military demonstrations, and mock battles. I am not sure why it has the same name as permanent designs on the skin. The English language is very confusing.

The Museum of Childhood was really worth the visit
The Royal Palace tour was excellent
Photo taken in the palace just before I was told that photography was not permitted. Oops

Kay caught an overnight bus to London a couple of days before her flight back to New Zealand. There had been train and bus strikes and a global Microsoft breakdown while we were here  she didn’t want to risk missing her flight home.

I then moved to stay with my granddaughter, Hope, and her fiance, Daniel. They have been away from NZ for over 6 months now, so I was pleased to see them both. They both have good jobs and are settling into life in a first-floor apartment in a big city, which is only about 15 minutes walk from the city centre.

Views from up high with Hope

I visited Garry’s niece, Natalie, and hubby Paul and met their gorgeous 3 year old daughter,  Polly.  The last time I saw them was in about 2007 when they had recently arrived I Edinburgh. We talked and talked, even when Polly said, ” No more talking.”

I also caught up with Billy who had worked with me in New Plyouth quite a few moons ago. He now sells $600 shoes in a tiny wee shop in the heart of Edinburgh.

I also visited some old haunts of my son Dean’s and friend Megan. They looked at my photos and said that not much has changed there in 20 years. Mind you, that is a small period compared to the age of Edinburgh. Evidence of a Mesolithuc camp has been found, that dates back to 8500 BC. So it us a very, very old city indeed.

Hostel where Megan worked and I stayed in 2007
Pub where Dean worked

Day 2

I was in no hurry to leave in the morning as  I had plenty of time today.

The path was opened in 1986 and covers the North Norfolk Coast AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty). The vast salt marshes flood daily with the tides and long dykes have been built to contain and control the water. There has been considerable investment in the area to conserve the wildlife . Here is a link to more information if you are interested.

https://www.visitnorthnorfolk.com/blog/read/2021/10/discover-the-unique-salt-marshes-of-north-norfolk-b110

I basically walked along the dykes that wind through the marsh land for most of the day, coming across coastal fishing and recreational areas swarming with people and watercraft of all sorts.

And doggy comes too

I was a bit concerned about seeing cattle pooping in the water but then came across an information board that explained the benefits to the ecosystem.

The tides here are huge and not everyone takes notice of the warnings.

Apparently, a common occurance

I could see way ahead  dog walkers and bird watchers and also a group of hikers who would have been a kilometre away when I first spotted them. They were obvious because of their plodding walk and big back packs. So, I was on a mission to catch up with them. It probably took me an hour to meet the five men out for the weekend together. I chatted for a bit, finding out that they were headed to the same place as me, although I was planning to take a detour to Holkham Hall. So we parted company.

A shirtless bird watchet

I walked with a shirtless birdwatcher for a while, and he knew  more about New Zealand birds than I do. He sent me on a shortcut that would get me to Holckham Hall quicker.

I then came across a well-dressed walker  with a shirt on. He didn’t know much about birds but knew about opera singing. He had been performing his opera at Holkham Hall the previous evening. He told me that he made a good living with his voice. I told him that my family  was sadly lacking in musical genes, but there was hope for us because my grand daughter, Hope, is engaged to a very musical young man.

Holkham Hall was a real live place complete with a cricket match and music and deer grazing. I had some lunch and a good look around before heading back to the trail. 

No shooting allowed

By now I had walked about 20km in the heat and still had about 6 to go, so I put my thumb out on the road out of the estate. The second car stopped  guessing  I was  New Zealander. A couple about my age they said the last time they had seen a hitchhiker was when they hitched around NZ in the 1980s. They were happy to drop me at Wells-next-the-Sea (Not to be mixed up with Wells that is not next to the sea). 

I then only had about 3km to walk to my campground at Stiffkey. There are funny names in the country.

Plenty of room for my wee tent

I had my tent up and a had a  shower before the 5 blokes arrived, looking absolutely knackered, which perked me up no end.

They invited me to join them for dinner at the local pub, but I had a can of sardines and some instant mashed spud to eat, so I just had a beer with them. Three had been on trips to New Zealand.