Month: January 2020

The day started well. I stayed in my bunk and let the young ones get out of the way before I got up. I headed off alone up hill clambering over large red volcanic boulders for 15 minutes feeling ready for a relatively easy day.

However my heart began racing so fast that I couldn’t count the beats, my legs and arms were feeling wobbly and I was having trouble breathing.

I had a similar episode while tramping kn Patagonia about 10 years ago so was not too panicked in myself. I knew that laughing, coughing or getting a fright could reset my heart rate and I would be fine.

Along came Robyn and Martin then Anouk. We tried these techniques but nothing worked. So they helped me along the track to a safer area and I rested. Anouk went on ahead taking some of my gear as I didn’t want to hold her up and Robyn and Martin were going to stay with me. They were so good and patient as I needed to stop every 10 steps and lay down about every 40 step. I just couldn’t stop my heart from racing and had no energy to walk, especially uphill. The downhill bits were easier but they were quite risky so the added stress didn’t help.

They took all my gear from my pack and eventually Martin carried my pack as well.

I felt so ashamed and appalled at my body for doing this to me. I would much rather be hurt than have my body not do what it should. I have been feeling so good, strong fit and healthy and now this! I was afraid it would stop me finishing the trail.

Anyway we battled on finally reaching the Porters Creek Hut about 4.30 pm. It should have taken me about 3.5 to 4 hours and was to be my lunch stop. It had taken 9 hours.

I ate a little and laid down for an hour mostly thinking about what to do. A trip to the long drop, on 20 meters away had my heart racing again.

So after a discussion with all those present the decision was made for me to activate my Personal Locator Beacon. I was gutted and crying. Not what I wanted at all.

The rescue helicopter arrived in about 20 minutes and they said we had done the right thing. I needed to get to hospital and be checked out. So off we went for a 15 minute trip over the mountains that has taken me about 10 days to walk. I contacted my children who would have had a call from the Rescue Co-ordination Centre when the beacon was activated. I let them know I was not injured and was feeling okay.

The doctors thought I was probably dehydrated and that my electrolytes would be out of balance but that was not the case at all. All the tests came back saying things were good.

My heart settled down as they put the machines on me and took a raft of tests.

The staff were more interested in the fact that I had been walking for 92 days and in my gear. Lol. Quite a few of them were trampers and interested in the Te Araroa. I thought they should have been more interested in my heart but the machines were only showing a fit, healthy heart.

My resting heart rate was under 60 beats per minute and the test results came back saying I was all okay to go at just after midnight. I have it confirmed that I am a fit and healthy specimen.

The doctor said to have a couple of days rest then try again. He also gave me a sheet with some more techniques to help shock my heart back into a correct rhythm. So if you see me on the track blowing into a syringe for 15 seconds until I am nearly passed out, then laying down quickly with my feet in the air, don’t be alarmed.

My brother Nigel came and collected me and we made a 1.30 am trip to McDonalds as I was starving having missed dinner.

This is the 3rd time I have been rescued by helicoptor and there has been another 2 times that I called it for people in my group. So I am keeping up my Frequent Flyer Points.

I have now had three days rest in Nelson and have pushed myself up a steep set of stairs a couple of times so feel happy to ho o with my Te Araroa.

However I will not do the next section from St Arnaud to Lewis Pass it is very challenging. Instead I will walk the St James Walkway in the same area. This is at a lower level and quite a bit flatter. DOC class it as suitable for beginners so there will be more people around.

I am feeling confident that I will he okay. The previous time this happened to me was after about 10 days tramping in Patagonia about 10 years ago. This time it has taken 92 days so the odds are getting better.

Maybe I just needed some McDonald’s, a beer and a few days of good food and showers.

Watch this space

Thanks to everyone who was there to support me on the day and afterwards. Your encouragement and concern has been really appreciated.

Day 91 Slaty Hut to Little Rintoul Hut.

I left at 7.45 and Anouk just after me. She caught up about an hour down the track and we stayed together all day.

This was one of the high risk sections so I needed to have a witness in the event of me falling off the mountain. And I needed to be able to tell her parents what happened if it was her to fall. It was very rocky, high and exposed. Particularly dangerous in bad weather but it was going to be a very hot 30 degree day.

I was not actually afraid but we were both happier to have eachother around. Anouk helped me on some of the trickiest sections where it was hard to gauge the best place to place my feet. Not for the faint hearted at all! This is the trail notes for the section.

It was probably about 30 degrees up there all day. Very, very hot work and we needed to carry a lot of water which adds to the weight on our backs.

The notes said 4 hours to Old Man Hut turnoff but we did it in 3.5. It was a hot day of climbing up steep ridges and then down the other side then up again just to go down and up again. If we were in most countries there would be a gondola.

We reached the highest peak for the day – Mt Rintoul – 1730 meters above sea level feeling very pleased with ourselves and in awe of the views. This country is magnificent. Amazing views for miles.

I sent off some messages of joy and relief when we reached the summit. We stripped off our sweaty clothes and enjoyed the views and our sense of achievement for quite some time. However the most difficult parts were to come. Going down is trickier than going up. But we managed.

We arrived at Mt Rintoul hut 9 hours later to be cheered in by the others. Everyone was pleased to see we had all made it through one of the most dangerous days of the trail. Probably 40% of the day we could easily have tumbled down the mountain if we put a foot wrong.

Day 91 . To Mid Wairoa Hut. 9 hours

This was a really nice day for me. I walked on my own but played leap frog with a young swiss couple, a kiwi couple, Anouk a Bulgarian and German girl. We all stopped for lunch at the cute little Tarn Hut and gave our arms a good workout chasing off the sandflies. I hung out my sleeping bag and tent to dry as the nights have been very hot and still. The humidity causes condensation to collect in the tent even with the doors open all night, especially when camping near water. But it is a good excuse for a decent lunch break.

A tarn is a mountain lake. There is no river coming in or out of it, it is basically a big puddle high up on a mountain. Unfortunately it is also a breeding ground for sandflies.

Today I had only a short ascent, some time out on the tops then a big long decent. About 1,200 metres over 4km. It was mostly through forest so at least I was in the shade for most of the day.

Yesterday I had not worn my sun hat as I needed all fields of vision at all times because of the difficult terrain. As a result the top of my head got sun burnt. A bit ouchy when I run my fingers through it as my way of brushing my hair.

My innersoles had finally disintegrated so I conned a nice young man into letting me lighten his load by cutting some out if his sleeping mat.

The hut was a tiny 4 bunk that was very hot with 10 or so people in there, especially in my full anti sandfly merino outfit. The bug net was the envy of all the campers.

So I cooked outside then got into the tent as quickly as possible trying desperately not to bring too many in with me. I killed about 50 of the little buggers before eating my dinner.

So here I am in my tent at 6pm at Mid Wairoa Hut. This is the only place to be safe from the millions of sandflies here. Such a shame as it is a pretty spot beside a clear green river with a great swimming hole. The best I could do was a quick wash and change into my anti sandfly outfit.

I have told the overseas people that God made New Zealand then realised it was perfect, just like Heaven. As there couldn’t be a Heaven in earth he decided to add just a tiny wee nuisance to the place. The sandfly. However I don’t think he realised how well the little creatures breed and how annoying their bites are.

That night we had an earthquake that made everyone rather uneasy and the mice were at us again. Some were scuttling around under my tent so I was wacking them with my sandal. They seemed to get the message and went onto other tents. It hadn’t long before the Swiss girl was screeching as two had eaten onto her tent and were knawing away at her food in her pack. Maybe mice are another of God’s little annoying creatures.

There was nothing I could do so I put my eye mask on, ear plugs in and bug net over my head and went to sleep.

Day 92. 23 Jan 2020. Reached the 1,900 km mark. To Hunters Hut

Another long hard, hot day to come. We arrived at hut and decided to have a 2 hour break to keep out of the mid day sun. Martinand Robyn, the Swiss/ Kiwi couple did the same. The young ones had a gone on ahead in the heat of the day..mad!

During the morning the track had us following a river which entailed about 8 decent river crossings, clambering up and down banks and a lot of dodgy sidling. The forest was also alive with wasps. Anouk stepped over a nest hole in the ground right in the middle of the track. The wasps were not impressed and dozens came flying out sounding very angry at the disturbance. I was only 2 steps behind her so took the brunt if their discontent by stinging me about 6 times. We took off along the track and dealt to the stings and I took an anti histamine tablet. Damn things

The river crossings cooled us off a bit and provided lovely fresh cool water to drink, however we couldn’t hang around too long to enjoy it because of the bloody sandflies. grrrrr

We had a 2 hour lunch break, dried tents etc. then headed off for another section described as very challenging. Martin and Robyn joined us so we were 4. Robyn wasn’t keen on doing another hard stretch so Anouk and I did our best to help her along and keep her distracted with out chatter. The day does go faster and easier if there is something else to concentrate on rather than the heat, pain and difficult terrain.

We reached the 1,900 km mark today feeling happy to be alive and in such a beautiful place.

We arrived at Hunters Hut at 8.30 that night. We were all tired and a little grumpy as it was 13 hours since we had set out that morning. There was very little flat space to put up our tents so I opted to take the last bunk bed in the hut. Bugger the creatures, I needed to eat quickly and get to sleep.

The other people at the hut were already in bed when we arrived so we quickly cooked instant noodles and got into bed. A big day over and we all survived without mishap again. Happy if not exhausted.

So I start the real Richmond Ranges today. Nigel dropped Anouk and I at the Hacket Picnic area and we were off.

We arrived at Hacket Hut 1.5 hours later to find an American couple had lost their hiking buddy, Wit, the previous day and asked us to look out for him.

The notes said 4 hours to Starvel Hut for 6km, and a 1,600m climb so we knew it was going to be steep. Anouk went ahead and I played leapfrog all day with 4 others on the track. I arrived in 3 hrs 15 minutes feeling very happy with myself. The lost hiking buddy had made it to this hut the previous night so everyone was relieved. There is plenty of time to let your imagination run wild whilst you are puffing up a hill.

Shoes and wet sweaty shirt off, and lunch made. A wrap with salami, cheese and carrot. Scrumptious. After about an hour chilling out in the sun everyone began to leave for the next hut.

Anouk and I were last to leave. Our home for the night was only 2.5 hours away up a really steep and exposed section. We were now really in the mountains.

We saw Mt Taranaki and had amazing views down both sides of the island. We were up high and the view had us both in tears. This is why we do this. Being able to see nothing but nature, mountains, deep valleys, bush and rocks makes me feel both insignificant and important at the same time.

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Dinner was cooked and eaten outside with 4 others as the Americans had carried on for another 5 hours to the next hut. Some of these young ones are on very tight timetables and are madder than me.

The night of the mice.

I decided to sleep in the hut that night with 3 others but didn’t get much sleep at all. I dropped off quickly listening to a podcast but was awakened by scratching in my pack that was beside my bed. We had all hung our food bags up on hooks on the ceiling but I had some snacks in a pocket on my pack so thought the mouse was after them. So I chased him away but as soon as I was quiet he came back rusting away. I then remembered the big bag of potato chips on the back of my pack. Yes there was a hole in the corner.  I wasn’t sure if the mouse was in  the bag or not so I got up and took it outside and put it on a bush. I put the snacks in my food bag and moved my pack away from me.   But the rustling continued. I shone my torch at the packs and mice scuttled away numerous times through the night.  One even came up on my bed and tried to take my silicon earplug. Note to self..sleep in tent from now on.

Anouk heard all the commotion but the other 2 slept through it all. Next day one of the girls found that the mice had got into her pack and eaten all her snacks. Cheeky buggers.

I had a sleep in as we only had a 3 hour walk out to Hacket Picnic area where Nigel was to pick us up. So I had my coffee and muesli in bed after the other 2 girls had left to carry on through the ranges. I should have asked them to prepare my breakfast for me as it is not quite the same when you have to get up to make it yourself and trudge 50 meters to an insect filled toilet before going back to your sleep in. I must try and find better class of hotel.

The Dutchies arrived having had a good night under the stars and said they had woken up in the fog. The point they camped on was 980 meters above sea level so to be expected this far South.

We had a lovely walk out on a very busy Saturday. Lots of family groups and dogs were walking along the track going to swimming holes, up to the huts and to picnic spots. It is only about 20 minutes drive from Nelson and a great place to spend a hot sunny day.

There were a few slips and some tricky river crossings but all in all a lovely track and so nice to see so many people.

I sat for a bit waiting for Nigel chasing off the sandflies and Wekas.

Day 89. Resupply for next 24 days.

I had a list of things to do on my Sunday off and they took all day. Nigel came grocery shopping with me and enjoyed the process of choosing the lightest and best food value items to pack. 3 supermarkets on a busy Sunday morning took us a couple if hours. His wife commented that she cant get him to come shopping with her gir that long.

Nigel also found and fixed the slow leak that had been plaguing me for the last week.

Then I spent the afternoon removing all the unnecessary packaging and sorting it into 3 piles of 8 days supplies. One to take with me, one to send to St Arnaud and the next one to Boyle Village on the Lewis Pass.

They weighed about 5kg each so the most food I have taken so far. Add up to 5 litres of water on some of the days and I will be at my maximum weight.

We are now heading into the highest peaks of the trail (up to 1,800 metres, alpine conditions )and some of the most dangerous parts. A few people have decided to skip these sections but I reckon I will be okay. Take it easy and carefully and keep good people around me is my plan.

I can do this.

I got a lift from Glenis and Tim from Havelock to Pelorus Bridge on my Day 85 so I have another 20km to make up at some stage. We also transported another TA hiker who needed to let a toe heal for another day, and the packs belonging to the Dutch parents. Thanks Trail Angels Glenis and Tim.

I spent the afternoon exploring the area which has some good swimming and camping spots and day walks. The carparks were full and I had morning coffee, lunch and afternoon tea at the cafe. In between I lay on the grass by the river and read a book. Now that was a really good rest day.

The rest of the crew arrived in dribs and drab over the afternoon.

Day 86 To Captains Creek Hut in Richmond Forest Hill Park. 1,825 km completed

As usual I was awake and up and away first. We usually go to bed about 8pm so by 5am I have had enough of laying in my tent. So I may as well get up and see the sunrise and get ready for the day.

I left at 7.30am and walked along a  lonely country road until 11 am 14km. It was a bit chilly when I started but by 10.30 the sun was scorching. So I had an early lunch in the shade before heading into the Richmond Hill Forest Park.

A young, fast German girl, Elli, and a young man overtook me as I walked alongside the Pelorus River for 4 hours. It was very pretty, the greenest river I have ever seen. I wondered what makes it green. The water isn’t green when I fill my drink bottle from the river so what makes it green? Can someone Google it for me?

The track wound up and down but only about 400 meter climbs at any stage so an easy day really. There was a short swing bridge to cross that was a little hard to get on and off, but as there was no wind it didn’t swing too much. There were a few places that would have resulted in a chopper ride out if I had got my footings wrong but I managed okay.

Maybe 3 months ago I may have thought it was a hard day but now I am feeling invincible. Well, not quite but definitely fitter, faster, stronger and more confident than I have been for years.

Arriving at Captains Creek Hut I saw that the two who had passed me had carried on as the next hut was only 2.5 hours ahead. I was happy to call it quits for the day and found one of the few flat spots to put up my tent as the hut didn’t look too inviting.

I went down to the river for a swim but chickened out and just had a wash then quickly dressed as the sandflies began to circle.

8 other TA hikers arrived over the next 3.5 hours. They all looked exhausted and pleased to have survived the day. I had dragged a mattress out of the hut, put on my bug net and was reading a book I found in the hut. A little bird came and visited me.

It had obviously been a shared book as it was a pile of loose pages that I needed to put in order before beginning to read. This is what happens when there is only one book and numerous people who want to read. The first person reads a page then rips it out and passes it on to the next person, who passes it on to another one. This way numerous people can share a book.

Everyone was getting really annoyed with the sandflies so it was early to bed. Our tents have bug nets but some of the little bastards seem to find a way in no matter how fast we zip and unzip. So we all played squash the sandflies before settling down for the night. The ones that spurt blood have bitten you.

The sign said 2.5 hours to Middy Hut and another 3 to Rocks Hut, then 4.5 hours to Brownings Hut. A 10 hour day but it would make the next day shorter and I had a 4pm pickup that day.

The notes showed that it was steep and rocky so I had a bit of a sleep in after deciding I was best to have some company a bit closer today. There was 4 swing bridges to cross but I am now doing them very confidently after doing some work on my subconscious.

I was still first to leave but soon overtaken by a kiwi lad and the the fast young German girl. The track was nice through beech Forest and I was making good time getting to Middy hut in just 2 hours. As I was decendung to the hut I heard a man calling out. At first I thought it was whoops of joy at reaching the hut but the calls continued. They sounded as though they were ahead of me so i had a quick lou break then carried on uphill as fast as I could thinking someone was in distress. Was it the Kiwi lad? I couldn’t actually go any faster than my usual pace but the calls continued for about 30 minutes until I then heard a helicopter in the distance. Not ahead if me but behind me. As soon as I heard the helicopter the calls ceased. Maybe I was hearing the echo and the calls were coming from behind me.

Okay I thought, the person had set off their beacon and was now waiting quetly for rescue. The helicopter seemed quite a long way from me and didn’t appear to hang around long. Maybe it was some of the ones coming in behind me. Or someone in another track maybe.

Anyway I eventually arrived at Rocks Hut to find the kiwi lad and the German girl were already there and all okay.

I decided to stay until the others arrived to make sure they were alright. So I hung out my tent, sleeping bag and sweaty clothes  in the sun, ate my lunch then settled down for a nana nap.

Eventually the others all arrived. Some had heard the calls and helicopter but thought they were in another direction. I will see what I can find out when I get to town.

We left at  3.30 pm with 4.5 hours to go. We being German Anouk and her parents who were on the last days of their 3 weeks hiking with their daughter.  I have been meeting up each evening with them since before Wellington and enjoy their company. The parents will end their hiking in Nelson so will pop out the same way as me and get a ride into town with me by my brother, Nigel

We passed through a huge area if storm damaged trees. Massive amounts of trees were down like pick up sticks. A track had been cut through them but it was still a bit of a scramble under over and around. I was glad to have company.

About 4km from the hut we came to a clearing with amazing views over the Richmond Ranges and down to the Tasman Bay. The Dutchies decided to camp for the night and enjoy their last night together in the wilderness under the stars.

I carried on down hill to the hut taking another 1.5 hours and arriving at 8pm. I decided to sleep in the hut with 2 other TA hikers but in hindsight I should have put up my tent.

The hut was frequented by sandflies, noisy mosquitoes, and rats scratching in the ceiling. The mossies were the most annoying as I can hear them even with my earplugs in. At least in my tent I can kill them off before I sleep and then know I am safe for the night.

They say that the sandflies double in number and size every 100 km as we go down the South Island. Looking at the size of the ones here I reckon this is not just a myth. They were huge.

I spent a day in Wellington to plan the first part of the South Island. The first 30 or so days needs to be planned carefully as there are 5 sections, from 5 to 8 days in length, without access to shops to resupply. So some bags of food need to be parceled up and sent ahead for pick up later. At this stage I decided to come out of the Richmond Ran=ges to Nelso where my brother lives. From there I would purchase food to send ahead to 3 different places en route.

I am moving into the much less populated part of New Zealand. There are only 4 cities and we do not walk through any of them. Also we go through very few of the small towns. So parcels of food must be sent ahead and there is quite a bit of hitch hiking off the trail to resupply.

I don’t enjoy this planning and really miss Frances who did enjoy it. Anyway I have a plan now and left Wellington with 6 days of food on board which would see me through to Havelock.

Also while in Wellington I had dinner with my friend Margaret. We had met over 40 years ago when we were new mothers and supported each other through the hard years of having babies and toddlers.  Between us we have 9 children and 15 grandchildren so there was lots to talk about.

Queen Charlotte Track

Friday morning I was on the Interislander ferry with about 12 other TA walkers. It is a 3.5 hour trip across Cook Strait. We had a calm sailing and as it is school holidays and peak tourist season, the boat was full.

On arriving at Picton we all made our way to the mail boat for a 2.5 hour trip through the beautiful Marlborough Sounds to Ships Cove. I had a wee sleep on the boat so was ready to go when we landed.

Meretoto/Ship Cove was James Cook’s favourite New Zealand base during his three voyages of exploration so there is a monument there to him. I took a quick photo, used the toilet then headed off for a 1.5 hour easy walk to School House Bay campsite.

There was about 12 of us at the idyllic campsite by the sea and I slept quite well.

The next day was 22 km day to the next DOC campground. I was first to leave at 7.30 am and first to arrive at 2.30 pm. That included an hours break for coffee and cake at the posh Furneaux Lodge. I also paid $6 for a packet of chippie to take for my munchies tonight. This lodge is infamous because 2 young people went missing after a New Years Eve party here 1998. Someone was convicted with their murder, even though a bodies were never found. Many people still believe that he was innocent and that the police got it very wrong. I felt a bit uneasy being here but coffee in the sun can’t be beaten.

This track was the easiest so far on the trail. 100s of people do all of it in up to 5 or 6 days or just parts. There are boat pick ups and drop offs all along the 71km track. You can also have your pack carried by boat between camps or lodges. If you want to follow in the easiest of my footsteps, then this is the track for you.

I enjoyed the walking on my own lost in my own thoughts.

I had 2 more nights on the track, in my tent at Camp Bay and then Cowshed Bay. The track continued to be easy going with stunning views, lovely native bush a lots of Wekas.

Wekas are cheeky little birds who are very inquisitive and like to steal things from hikers. There are plenty of warnings around about keeping your things safe but they are persistent little creatures and not afraid of humans. I was just leaving a lunch shelter one day when a week took off down the track with someone’s lunch bag. 4 people ran off after it but I was on my way and didn’t find out whether they managed to retrieve the lunch or not.

As the track winds around the bays there are pockets of holiday homes, each with a boat or two, and B’n’Bs, lodges and posh hotels. I stayed at the basic DOC campgrounds that have a cooking shelter, a toilet and a tap. Most if the people staying were Te Araroa walkers including

• Anouk from the Netherlands and her parents who are walking with her for 3 weeks
• A German couple who honeymooned in NZ 27 years ago and have returned to walk the South Island part of the TA
• 2 young giggling German girls who seemed to have skipped more of the trail than they have walked
• A shy American lad (unusal)
• A kiwi couple from Auckland

The last day was a 21km walk to Anakiwa and the first half of the day it was raining li so I took off early and went as fast as I could to keep warm, managing to finish in 6 hours. I was pleased with myself as the signs said 8 hours. I was spurred on by the thoughts of a hot coffee at a cafe when I arrived. However there was only a coffee cart that took only cash. And I had $3, not enough for coffee so I made do with a cup of tea which was not the same.

My cousin, Glenis and her husband Tim were staying in their 5 wheeler at the camp ground in Havelock, which was another days walk for me, mostly along a gravel road. So I accepted their offer of a pick up so I could spend some time with them while resupplying in Havelock. We also gave the 2 giggling Germans a ride part of the way.

I spent Tuesday yakking with Glenis and we went for a drive out to Canvastown camping area which is a really nice secluded gem of a camp area near a crystal clear river. Lots of sand flies though. This was the start of the sandflies which would drive us all to distraction for the next couple of months

I picked up a few supplies for the next section and did my usual camp duties of washing clothes, updating website and having a pub meal.

Day 74 Pukeatua Rudge Track to Waikane 4 hours 14 km.

This was a really good day for me. I started out feeling relief that the Tartarua Ranges were behind me. I was going to climb over the last range to get me onto the home straight to finish the North Island in one piece.

The Pukeatua Ridge track is 7 km up hill followed by 7 km downhill. I had read that someone go up in1 hour but most TA people take 2.5. So I took off full of energy and enthusiasm attempting to reach the summit from the turn off in 2 hours. I had very little food left so my pack was about as light as it gets.

Being on my own meant I could make my own pace and I went for it pushing myself and even running for short periods. The track was very well formed and went through a number of grassy clearings which helped considerably.

I reached the summit in just over 2 hours so was very pleased with myself. It was a bit windy so I took a while to find a sunny spot that was sheltered enough to sit for my lunch.

Unfortunately I shared it with an ants nest. They were down my socks and up my pants in no time at all, and they were biting. So I had to find another spot and rid myself if the creatures.

I met a few T A walkers, coming in the opposite direction to me as they were doing “flip flops.” This means they are not walking the sections in the usual order. E.g one had sustained an injury in Te Kuiti so had been recovering in Wellington. He was now walking North back toTe Kuiti. Another had not been able to cross the Taruruas because of bad weather so had hitched to Wellington to make his way back.

They had all seen USA Carolyn about an hour ahead of me but she must have been moving fast too as I didn’t catch her.

The final part of the trail was through lovely native bush on a privately owned farm. Again I gave thanks to the owners for letting us cross their land.

Eventually I came out of the native bush smack bang into a recently logged area of the farm. It was downright ugly! The track was steep with very sharp rocks that scared me a bit. I didn’t want to slip on them so I took it easy until I was out.

Rest Day at friends in Paraparaumu

Day 75 was a busy rest day. I washed every piece of clothing I had and every piece of body too. Also I had a haircut, dud some shopping, lots of catch up stuff with my good friends, Maxine and Trevor, as we as updating my website. A rest for my legs but not much else. But I mostly appreciated a comfortable bed to sleep in for a change.

Day 76. Paekakarikei to Paramatta via the Escarpments Track. 21km in 6 hours

My friend Royce, from Palmerston North was meeting me again to walk the day with me. Also another friend Jan was walking in from the Paramatta end to meet me.

I was glad for the company on the Escarpment Track as it was very windy and exposed up there. The track was built to get the TA walkers off the busy highway below. It has become a very popular walk for locals and tourists alike. We passed a a few people running and walking the track which is good to see.

The track is very steep, with lots of steps and a couple of swing bridges; not a place that would be enjoyed by someone with vertigo.

We met up with Jan along the way and then there was 3 of us chatting as we walked. We also met up with te English couple, Andy and Moni, who were just doing day walks so as to rest Moni’s injuries. ( I had met them previously just out of Palmerston North)

I stayed the night at Jan’s place in Whitby and we were joined by Phillipa for a evening of laughs.

Day 77 to Ngaio. 28.6km in 9 hours

Jan dropped me back on the trail the next morning and I headed off I the direction of our capital city, Wellington, at 7.30 am.

After a couple of hours I was joined by Anouk from the Netherlands who I have met up with a few times since starting the Te Araroa. She is now walking with her parents for 3 weeks so the 4 of us had a good day together. Wellington showed its true colours and served up the wind for us. We went up over Colonial Knob which was a big climb and the Mt Kaukau. I’m not sure how the colonial women managed in their long skirts and stays!.

Below us were the outer suburbs of Wellington and we had magnificent views out to Kapiti Island, of Wellington Harbour and over to the South Island. Mostly it was too windy to stand and gaze for any length of time. We had lunch in a bus shelter along a connecting road walk.

Anouc had managed to get accommodation in Ngaio but I didn’t. Even the Trail Angel’s were full up so I caught a train into the city and stayed at the Hotel Waterloo backpackers right by the station.

Last day in North Island Day 78

I woke up feeling a little apprehensive about finishing the North Island. Firstly because it meant that the end of my journey was getting nearer. 1,620 km down and 1,380 to go. Also it meant that I will be going down into a part of the country that I did not know well. I have cycled there, done some of the Great Walks and driven around it but not much else.

But off I went by train back to Ngaio and began walking the Northern walkway all the way into the city centre. Even though I was in native bush for most of the day I knew I was on urban tracks. There are bridges over tiny streams that we would have waded through when in the back-country, the track was wide and solid. No mud all day.

I stopped at a few outdoor shops in the city not interested in any other shopping at all. A pie and coffee at Te Papa, our best museum, then I was off again.

After lots of ups and downs I headed into the city centre, and along Oriental Parade then onto the Southern Walkway to Island Bay, the end of my journey.

I walked up and down as Wellington is built on hills. I told everyone that I met that I was nearly finished the North Island part of my damn long walk. I took their congratulations with pride.

Finally at 3.15pm on 8 January 2020 reached then end of the North Island feeling very emotional. I rang Frances to share the moment with her feeling sorry that she wasn’t there too.

About 10 years ago I decided that my New Years Eves were probably limited so I had better make sure I remember them all from now on, so each year I have made sure I am somewhere different and memorable and not drunk.

So as 2019 ended I headed up to Te Matawai Hut in the Tararua Ranges with my younger son, Dean. I had commandeered him to carry up my 6 days of food because it was one heck of a climb straight up a mountain for 13 km taking nearly 8 hours. That is 1.6 km per hour which I think I could crawl faster than!

So with my new lighter pack (thanks Roman) and no food on board I was able to keep up with my big strong son all the way. We chatted all day and again I enjoyed having that one to one time with him. He has also made me very proud of what he has achieved in his life time and of the lovely family he has. He also brought along some red wine and cheese and crackers to celebrate the sun going down on 2019. I had an early start to a big few days so staying up to see the New Year in was not a viable option.

The hut soon filled up. There was a young American TA hiker, Caroline, who I had met at Toko Corner, and a few other locals on overnight tramps.

A group of men arrived with a 5 year old boy and a dog in tow. The boy looked in better condition than the dog, which proceeded to grow severely at anyone who moved. I have felt like that at times when I have had a day with only 2 feet in the mud so I sympathised with him having to deal with 4 wet and stuck feet. However I did insist that the dog not sleep in the bunk room as they had wanted, and be tied up outside. I didn’t want to get up to pee in the night and have to come across a growling pig dog.

Mask on and ear plugs in I slept as well as an old lady can on a platform bed in a room full of people.