Day 4 – 29 July

I woke early with the birds who were fighting in the trees beside my tent.  I was glad it had been daylight since 4.30 am because I think I might have been frightened by awake by them crashing into my tent if it was dark. It’s funny how the dark heightens our senses, which is really silly as darkness, itself,  can’t actually hurt anyone.

So I checked my route for the day. It was only a short days walk from my finish at point Cromer, and I wasn’t expected there until the day after today. So I decided to stay on another day here.

When the camp owner surfaced at 9 am, I asked if I could please stay another night, as I was ahead of schedule.

  “No, you have to leave” she said “I won’t have backpackers here for more than one night.” At first I thought she was joking but then I saw her face. She was looking at me in disgust as though I was some sort of smelly tramp. To be fair, I probably am sort of smelly and have been tramping around the country for 8 weeks now, but I can’t see that I would be a problem.

But I just said “Okay, thanks for your lovely camp.   I will pack up and go”. This is what I did, so I was on the road heading towards the beach at 10 am.

I wasn’t looking forward to more walking on stones so was pleasantly surprised to see that coastal cliffs were beckoning.  The breeze was nice as it was 22°.

The views were a welcome change from the marshes of the previous couple of days. I entered the Sheringham Park which is owned by the National Trust. The Sheringham Hall is privately leased ( no doubt by wealthy people). Within the grounds you can do everything from sunset bat walks to garden walks and it is a two pawprint rated place.

These places have water bowls, dog bins and dog-friendly walks. You’ll be able to take your dog into some areas, but not everywhere. If there’s a food and beverage outlet, you can have a cup of tea with them, probably outside. 

I didn’t visit.

Of course there were many  dog walkers and a golf course.

The golf course had the first hill of this walk, and at the top was a Coast Guard tower.

I popped in and had a good half-hour lesson on the job of a volunteer Coast Guard. He pointed out the four big windfarms out at sea, although I could only see the closest one with 85 turbines, with more being built. We logged a huge, luxury private vessel as it went past and saw a few lobster and crab boats.

I arrived in Sheringham, a village of about 8,000 people and probably as many dogs. This will do me for the day, I thought, but a check on the internet showed that the camp grounds here were full up. It is the height of summer and there are 65 million people in this little country, all on their summer jollies.

I found a pitch up the road about 4km at East Runton Beach. £19.04. Why the 4 pence???

As it was only midday I found the high street and weaved my way through the throngs of holiday makers to the Sainsbury Local shop where I found a nice (old)  salad, a pottle of coleslaw, a banana and 4 bread rolls for £4.55. (About NZD$10)  Bargain! Lunch and dinner sorted.

The shops sold the usual array of buckets and spades,  although the beaches are all pebbles that don’t make very good sandcastles. I think there were more people in the Arcades and ice cream parlors than swimming at the beach, but one needs to have the whole seaside holiday experience.

I ate my salad rolls, and  then went for a giant coffee at Costa. I should have taken a loyalty card as  most of my coffees have been at a Costa Cafe. I am sure I would be entitled to a free coffee by now.

I wandered down to the beach and found  seat next to local granny who was looking after her daughters 2 dogs while they had their last week away before their first baby was born. The granny said she was looking forward to having a real grandchild to look after rather than the 2 silly little spoilt dogs.

2pm and it was time to head to my home for the night, but I came across the Lifeguard museum that looked very interesting. I had been putting my small change of  pennies and 5 pence in the donation  boxes all along the coast, mainly because I didn’t want to carry any extra weight, rather than thinking I would need a sea rescue.

Anyway, the elderly gentleman at the counter picked up on my accent and proceeded to give me a blow by blow account of his recent trip to New Zealand, including to visit a cousin in Palmetston North.

Half an hour later, he wanted to accompany me on my tour of the museum, but I had had enough of him so I told him I didn’t have much time to spare. That got me a half-price  childs ticket and a quick run around on my own. It was very interesting and I wished I had stayed longer.

I started out along The Promenade, which has rows of colorful little beach huts.

I stopped to have a nosey inside of one, this family  had owned theirs  for 5 generations and were not giving it up. All the beach paraphernalia is kept inside them. Others rent them for their holidays.

So they sit outside their little huts in their deckchairs, men shirtless, watching half the  world and their dogs go by.

I must look like someone who likes a chat because they all seemed to hear my conversation with the previous person and wanted to talk about their own connection with New Zealand.

Needless to say, I do like a good chat, so it took me a good hour to get along the promenade and out onto the cliffs.

After an hours walk and I was at the Hilltop Campground, pitching my tent and showering as quickly as I could because I had bought a can of beer at reception and I didn’t want it to warm up.

My tent looked tiny and a wee bit sad next to all the big rigs.

After eating my dinner I popped next door to have a chat with Andrew and Barbara. They had been impressed with my well polished camp setting up. I have done it 100s of times now, so I have it down to a fine art, compared with those who only put their tent up once every couple of years. I have witnessed some interesting examples of the beginnings of the end for some marriages at campgrounds.

My neighbors have outfitted their Mercedes Sprinter themselves and can live off the grid for 7 days. They are ready to take off into the Scottish Highlands when the apocalypse happens. It sounds like a good plan to me.