Author: Karen Griffiths

To Comyns Hut

I was the only SOBO on the 8 am shuttle to the south side of the Rakaia river. There was also a French NOBO who told me he started 15 days ago, but is moving very fast as he wants to complete the whole trail before winter sets in. He said that most of the NOBOs around now are only doing the South Island.

We drove up past the braided river and I could see why we were not allowed to cross it. It is very wide and has many braids.

The first 3 hours was following a farm track, firstly across a station where I met numerous cows and their large calves. They are obviously used to us trampers as I had to walk around them even if they were sat in the middle of the track. No manners.

I started out in fog which got thicker the higher I climbed. I was sweating profusely as it was hot and very humid. My shoes were soaked from the wet grass.

I worried a bit about the second half of the day which has a few tricky parts to find the track if the fog continued. I asked for it to burn off and it did.

By the time I reached the A Frame hut the sun was out and I sat outside to eat my lunch and write this. There was a nice new toilet.. thanks DOC Department of Conservation.

I read the hut book , seeing the names of the people going before me. These Intentions Books are a safety measure. Everyone who passes a hut, whether they stay the night or not should fill in the book. Search and Rescue (SARS) will check all the hut books in the area first when a tramper goes missing. This will guide them to the correct area to begin searching. i.e. after the last hut book entry.

I have talked with all the foreigners about this and see that most people around me are complying. Some thought it is about who has paid so were not writing in the books. After my discussion about the benefit of their mother knowing their last known where-a-bouts, if they go missing, they are more likely to fill it in.

I sat in the sun and began to read a book that was in the hut. If it was any good I would take it with me as I only have 3- 4 days of food with me so can afford the weight of a paperback. It was worth carrying so now I have a book to read. Hooray.

The sign said 2 hours to Comyns Hut but I arrived in 1.5 hours. It is the “new” hut as it was built in 1967 to replace the original hut built in the 1890s. It was upgraded in 2008 so the beds and mattresses are in good order. It seems to be made from Meccano or shop shelving. But it works

I was first here so went down to the creek for a wash then dragged a mattress out in the sheltered side of the hut to enjoy my tomato soup and my book.

Shortly NOBO Dylan arrived. He had been in the fog all morning too. He is a 17 year old from Dunedin walking with his parents who had said are way older than me. They are 65 and 71. He had only just convinced them to let him go ahead on his own as they were too slow for him. He was to wait at the A Frame hut for them the next day. The hut filled up with a group of 5 who had been together for quite some time and I had thought I had “lost” them. I felt a bit left out so glad to have my book.

Day 116 21 km 8 hours to Manuka Hut

I was first away I the morning, probably because no one talked to me. The first 3 hours were following a small river. So cross the river, walk along beside the river walk in the river, cross the river, walk alongside the river, cross the river, walk in the river etc. For 3 hours. Very hard on my feet especially as my shoes are falling apart. I have new ones 2 days away in Geraldine.

I met up with the parents who were pleased to know their son was okay.

Then the day changed for the better. The river disappeared and started to enjoy the amazing country we live in.

Wow New Zealand is beautiful. Just walked 3 days through a high country farm purchased by the government to keep out of foreign hands and conserve it for future generations. Money well spent.. try and find anywhere like this in Europe and it would be covered in houses and industry. Here are some photos although you need to come and be here to really understand it.

There was some very large scree slopes to cross. Much bigger than I had ever come across before. But I have no fear anymore so I enjoyed them.

21 km and 8 hours later I arrived at Manuka Hut to be told that the hut was full in no uncertain terms. Damn unfriendly lot! So I put up my tent for the first time in ages and enjoyed my own space.

Day 117 16 Feb to Geraldine

I was awake at 5.30 so up and ready to go at 6.30am. I had to walk to the Rangitaka River which is another river we cannot cross. As a result we need to get a ride out and around the river. I asked the unfriendlies if they had booked a shuttle to be told that it was for them to know and me to find out. What has happened to the Trail family attitude?

So I headed off knowing I had 33km walk. The track was easy, a 4wd track first of all through conservation land then through a big station (farm) . So I punched out 12.5km in 2.5 hours. I was on a mission to get to the river before the others and and a ride into Geraldine.

After crossing the farm I was on a gravel road enjoying a really fast pace. I was feeling good and happy to be on my own. But as I walked along a road a nice fisherman pulled over and offered me a lift just before the track went off road again. How could I resist a ride to Mt Somers and the chance to hear all about the local merino and deer farming. Mt Somers is a tidy little village with a nice General Store where I bought a pie and coffee for my second breakfast.

Then I put my thumb out and got picked up by a decommissioned fire truck.. The man had bought the truck to convert to a horse float and accommodation. He was going all the way to Invercargil which is just 100km from Bluff, the end of the Te Araroa, and offered to take me all the way. About 700km. I was not even tempted and happily allowed him to drop me off in Geraldine.

My new shoes were here and I picked up a few supplies for the next section which will take me to Lake Tekapo. I stayed at the Rawhiti Backpackers along with a group of young (14-20 year olds) Japanese boys who were riding the South Island section of Te Aotearoa which is the cycle trail the length of New Zealand. Aussie Jimmy was there also but he wasn’t feeling well so was resting up again. He seems to go long and hard then crash as he passes me then I catch up with him again. I think my slow and steady is the way to go.

A 28km day in 8 hours. One of the nicest and easiest days of the trail.

Jimmy, an  Aussie guy, and I managed to sort a ride from our lodgings to the Bealey Hotel which was my last ending spot. There we popped in for a pot of tea before starting the day.

A couple of km walk down the main highway was a good start to the day. The wide Waimakariri River runs along side.

A convoy of about 10 tractors towing little huts came past me. One had “The Last Adventure Before Dementia” written across the back. I wondered if this would be my last adventure before dementia.

Then I walked another couple of km of gravel road into the Craigeburn Forest Park where I believe a moa (a 2 meter high bird supposed to be extinct) was sighted by the owner of the Bealey Hotel in 1993. This could have been a publicity stunt as no moas were found and the pub gained a lot more visitors. But I decided to keep a sharp eye out today incase I came across one today. I daydreamed about this for quite a while imagining selling my footage to TV One for a million dollars. That would mean I could do some more damn long walks.

Started at 10am and made it to the Lagoon Saddle Shelter at 12.25 to have my first lunch. These A Frame shelters are designed for use as emergency shelters in the snow. There was 6 others at the shelter, all going in the opposite direction to me.

Beautiful views of southern alps and glaciers. It was good to be above the bush line and out of the valleys so I kept stopping to look around me at the views as I climbed higher above the road. I could see the Southern Alps in the distance and the glaciers some of the walkers had climbed up to the day before.

5.9km to next hut for second lunch so I am off

I met lady from Hawkes Bay walking NOBO with her son. She had been talking to Anouk the night before so was on the look out for me. So I was only a day behind her now.

The day was mostly walking through beech forest so the shade was welcome as the wasn’t a cloud in the sky and it was very hot. There were a couple of recent big slips to get around but those ahead of me had made the paths. At times I felt like running as the track was soft and easy to negotiate after the last week or so on rocks and river beds. A hikers high I think. Needless to say I didn’t break into a run as I can’t focus well on the ground at the best of times.

West Harper Hut at 3pm. Built in 1967 it hasn’t had much maintenance done over the years and I would need to be pretty desperate to stay in it. Looking at the Intentions book most people have the same thoughts. Close by the river, with a long drop toilet, it would be a perfect camp spot except for the sandflies.

Sat in sun and dried feet. Only one dunking today and  I could have had dry feet if I had picked my crossings better. The Harper River was easy crossing after what we have had.

I was passed by a couple as I sat in the sun. They didn’t even bother having a look in the cute little old hut or to even greet me. I continued to come across them for the next week or so and they remained aloof to say it nicely.

This day just got better. I walked through beech forest for another 4km, getting passed by 3 young ones. I got a fright each time as I just go off into my own head space and sing and talk away to myself. So when someone comes behind me I jump. I wonder what they thought of my made up songs about Te Araroa.

There was a couple of swing bridges to cross just before the hut. And then I was there at the Hamilton Hilton. A nice big hut with screen doors to allow air in and sandflies out. Well most of them. There was some coils lit inside so the windowsills were covered with dead ones. A dead sandfly is always a good sight for itchy feet.

Day 113 Walk to Lake Coleridge then hitch to Methven.

A hut fill with 24 people begins to come alive about 6am with the ones who like to be in the front get up first and begin the morning routine. I tend to be in the middle of the pack these days as I cant see the sense in arriving early to spend more time fighting iff the sandflies. Mostly they leave me alone in bed and when I am walking.

The morning routine is usually completed in about an hour

• Gather torch, ear plugs, mask, phone, charger and anything else on the bunk with me.
• Climb out of bunk (may be bottom, middle or top)
• change into smelly hiking clothes
• Go out to the toilet
• Gather gear and take out to a table
• Get pack, probably hanging up out of mice
• Unhook food bag which was also hanging out of mice reach
• Put pot on for coffee
• Stuff sleeping bag into its sack
• Stuff clean? clothes into clothes bag
• Make coffee and eat muesli
• Clean teeth
• Continue putting everything into the backpack
• Go to toilet again (hopefully poop this time)
• Check around hut to make sure nothing left behind
• Sweep floor or wipe bench (I try to do some cleaning at each hut)
• Put on sunhat, smelly dirty socks and shoes
• Sunscreen on
• Another quick toilet if not finished poop
• Pack on
• Grab sticks
• Ready to go
• Look around and check I haven’t left anything behind

Nothing much to talk about for the 20km of this day except that I followed a 4wd track all the way down the valley towards Lake Coleridge playing leap frog with SOBOs and meeting ÑOBOs all day. It was very hot but there was some welcome cloud cover as I was out in the open all day.

I passed the 2,200 km mark today so less than 800 km to go.

Pictures below of the trail for the day.

There is a campsite here by the lake that has kindly been provided by Trustpower for our use. Unfortunately Health and Safety issues necessitated the removal of the big trees that gave shade so on a hot, dry day like today the idea of camping did not appeal to me. Also the next day was a 28 km walk along the side of the lake along a dry dusty road with little shade. At the end of that walk is the Rakaia River which we are not allowed to cross because it is very wide and to dangerous for us. The Te Araria Trust likes to keep all the hikers alive.

So the Te Araroa stops there and starts again across the river. Most walkers try to hitch into Methven, a small ski resort town for the night. Then get a shuttle back out to begin walking again on the other side of the river.

The first sign of life was at the Trustpower bulldozer shed. So I boldly knocked on the door and was greeted by the cleaners who were happy to give me a ride into Methven. So I sat with a glass of fresh water and used the very recently cleaned flush toilet. Again I am easily pleased.

This couple have the contract to clean the building which includes living quarters because the bulldozer drivers, maintenance personnel and contractors can get stuck up there for days in the winter snows. There is a series of canals that regulate the flow of water in and out of the lake and down to the power station.

So this couple come out once a month and clean here and the toilets at the camp site and others around the lake. So I was very lucky to get a ride with them and their cute 9 week old puppy. We stopped at the camp site and picked up 2 more guys leaving 3 girls to start their walk. They didn’t look too pleased to see that I had taken a space in the car. We shared the wee puppy.

So off we zoomed along the gravel road for 28km where we stopped to have a look over the bridge at the Rakaia River. We passed about 10 other SOBOS and 6 NOBOS. I felt sorry for them all out there in the heat and hoped if they wanted a ride they got one.

Then it was another 17 km into Methven where were were dropped at the Methven Camping Ground. As we were checking in the 3 girls we had left at the lake campsite arrived as they had managed a hitch very shortly after we left.

I shared a cabin ($25 each) with the two German girl, Melina and Lea, and found there was probably about 15 other TA walkers there already. This includes a couple I haven’t seen since just out of Auckland on day 35 18th of November, and a girl I haven’t seen since before the Tararuas at the beginning of January and Anouk who was having a rest day. I enjoy sharing our stories of the trail.

I showered quickly then headed to the chemist to get some cream for my back. About 6 days ago I developed a rash on my lower back, probably from my pack rubbing on my skinny back. There is no fat left there to load to make a padding. I have been putting Vaseline on it to help reduce the ribbing but it is getting quite a nuisance. So $14 later I have a tube of cream and an excuse for another day off to let it heal a bit more. Also this allowed the “not so friendly group” to get ahead of me.

On the advice of the couple who gave us a ride I went to the Blue Pub as opposed to the Brown Pub and shouted them a drink or 3 and some plates of hot chips. I had a few too as I was feeling quite dehydrated after my long day in the sun and needing to put some padding back on my bones.

Methven is a nice little town that gets very busy during the winter with skiers. Mt Hut skifield is close by and I will come back sometime to see this area in the winter. It must be beautiful and humming.

A day of the usual relaxing, planning and eating fresh food and I am ready for the next section.

I will take 3 days to get to the Rangiata River which is another one we cannot cross. So I will hitch out to a little town called Geraldine where my 3rd pair of shoes awaits me. Thanks to Cara, Tabitha and Anne for forwarding them throughout the country for me. They are much needed now.

After our rest days in Christchurch enjoying the company of friends and family, Anouk and I were off again to Boyle on the Lewis Pass. After a last salad at Tank we caught a bus to the outskirts of town then put our thumbs out. Within minutes we had our first ride of about 70 km. A short break and our second ride dropped us at the door of Boyle river outdoor education center where we spent the night with a couple of NOBOs. (North Bounder as opposed to me who is a SOBO. South Bounder.)

Day 106 to Hope Kiwi Lodge. 26km in 7 hours.

We started the day with a 10km roadwalk in a little drizzle. Then we were off on a nice track to Hope Kiwi Lodge. The sun was out and we were both so happy to be back on trail. The lodge was a bit better than the huts we were used to. Two separate bunk rooms and a lot of space.

I was a bit disappointed to see tea bags left in the sink and 3 piles of toilet paper within a metre of the front door. I collected it all up to carry out and made my feelings known to those left in the hut. They probably think I am a grumpy old lady but I don’t care.

Day 107. 6 Feb. 23 km 10 hours. I got a little lost. To Hirunui Hut No 3

I knew this would be a longish day as we had decided to do a 2 day in one stint while all was going well.. Anouk found a nice young Aussie to walk with so I was left behind walking in my own space. At the end of the day I don’t know what I have been thinking about so I hope my mind is resting while my feet are moving. The views were lovely over Lake Sumner and through moss covered bush.

I spied the Hurunui Hut, where I would stop for lunch, just across the river and felt ready to stop and rest my feet. I crossed a swing bridge and headed towards the hut. But the track disappeared. Shit!. Back to the bridge, look at the map and see that the track is up higher. So I go up another higher track that was a bit dodgy. Then it disappeared too. Bugger! I was getting tired and grumpy.

The app said I was 37 metres from the track but it was higher up. Back to the bridge and up higher and still no proper track to follow.

F@#K. REALLY GRUMPY NOW ! I should have sat and eaten but went back again to the bridge and saw an orange triangle pointing in the opposite direction to the hut. So up and over the top in the bush I went, really pissed off with myself for getting it wrong.

When I arrived at the Hurunui hut Anouk was glad to see me as she was just heading out to find me. Quite a few others had made the same mistake as me so that cheered me up slightly. Lunch fixed me properly.

I carried on to the Hurunui no3 Hut. I was last to arrive but Anouk had saved me a bottom bunk. She is a gem. Most of the hikers now are ones who started at the top of the South Island. We felt a bit like the outsiders .

Day 108. 25km 11 hours. To Kiwi Hut.

Today was a long day but a fun day. We crossed our first 3 wire bridge. 2 wires to hold and one for your feet. It was fun. It wouldn’t be fun if you fell.

WE followed the Harper Pass Track all day doing many river crossings.

Our feet were wet all day as even when we were not in rivers we waded across marshy areas that is used for livestock grazing. So the mud was a bit smelly making us pleased to go through the clear clean rivers.

We passed the old Cameron Hut which could be used if you got stuck between rising rivers. These century old huts are charming and I love to investigate them, however their old world charm does not always translate into a nice place to stay.

There were many small streams and waterfalls pouring into the main river that we had to negotiate around, through and over. It was a really fun day.

The best day. Up the Deception River for 11.5 hours. Day 109. 8 Feb.

This has to be my best day on the Te Araroa so far. We were on the go for 11.5 hours with wet feet all day but it was good.

Leaving Kiwi Hut we were in good spirits as we followed the wide braided river down towards the highway. We met a nice DOC man who was clearing possum traps and he showed us the best way to cross a river that took a bit of time off our day. Then we had a short walk along the highway until we reached the Morrison Footbridge.

The rest of the gang were all eating lunch and going through the decision making process of whether to carry on or not. It was drizzling and the valley we went heading up looked a bit grey. There had been no reception for days so everyone’s’ weather reports were old. However we had talked to the DOC man who said the drizzle wouldn’t last and we had at least 5 days of good weather ahead of us. We shared this information so most decided to carry on up to Goats Pass.

So we had big lunch each and took off. Wet feet, river crossings, lots of rocks to climb over, slips to negotiate …all fun stuff.

The last competitors in the Coast to Coast to Coast race had been through earlier in the day so the markers had all been renewed making it relatively easy to pick the trail. I have no idea how anyone could run the trail as it was difficult walking it. At times we were climbing up and over huge boulders in or alongside raging water. The track was washed out in many places so we precariously took our lives into our hands and feet over and over. We spent the day clinging to the edges of rocks with the thundering noise of the water filling our ears. It was very loud.

Anouk and I linked up to cross the Deception River at least 10 times as we were not taking any risks. We did see some people cross on singly or just holding hands which we thought was quite risky. But everyone made it through the day.

A group of about 6 stopped and camped for the night at about 4pm and 2 guys carried on to the Goat Pass Hut, another 2 hours ahead.

Anouk and I finally arrived at the Upper Deception Hut at about 7.15 pm. Nearly a 12 hour day. Thankfully a couple of guys came out to help us decide on where to cross the river to the hut as it was deep and swift and I was not really happy about attempting to cross it. But we made it .

We had a fun hour or so before crashing in to bed. We lit a fire for the first time on the trail and I enjoyed snuggling into my sleeping bag for only the 3rd time on the trail. We were up high and it is getting colder by the day, especially out of the sun.

One of my toenails finally came off to the disgust of my companions. I thought this kind of thing was part and parcel of a thru hike.

Over Goat Pass and on to Arthur’s Pass for the night.

We all slept late and then headed up following the Deception river to where it started as a small stream. We were climbing hand over hand up big boulders and crossing the fast moving water many times. The climb got steeper and the noise overwhelming yet we were both enjoying the day. Early on we were in the shade and the water was very cold so our feet were numb. There was a lot of places where we needed to help each other and we were a good team.

Eventually the track got steeper and we were then climbing a waterfall, unfortunately too steep and treacherous to stop and take photos.

But eventually the sun came over the mountains and warmed our spirits. The waterfall we had been climbing up all morning became smaller and smaller and at last, quieter. Then there was near silence and the Goat Pass Hut became visible in the distance.

We arrived 2 hours later at the Goat Pass Hut and took off our shoes and warmed our feet in the verandah while cooking up hot soup to eat with crackers and salami. There can’t be anything better than this.

There was 6 rolls of toilet paper at the hut which gave it a 10 star rating from me. They would have been left over from the Coast To Coast race the day before and not a usual addition to the hut.

Then it was downhill mostly all the way out to the Arthur’s Pass road. Goat Pass itself is very marshy so there is a long stretch of board walk across it. I hadn’t seen such luxury for a long time.

Anouk and I were planning on getting a proper room at the Bealey Hotel and having one of their famous pies for dinner but when we arrived at about 5pm the inn was full. A cider and a bag of chips helped us decide to stay in Arthur’s Pass about 20 km up the road. One resort we rang had a room for $500 and I said I would need a man thrown in for that price. Another was an Eeco lodge which means no electricity, a compost toilet and no WiFi. That is just like a DOC hut so I wasn’t paying $125 for that.

So i\I have had 2 nights now at The Sanctuary for $30 a night. It is a higgly piggly place, lots of bits of sheds etc. coupled together and run by Bill. It is a sanctuary for us TA hikers. I was given a proper towel and a hot water bottle. 25 stars to this place.

Dinner at the local pub and a day of chores and I am now ready for the next 3 to 4 day stretch to Methven. Anouk didn’t take a rest day and headed off this morning so I will be on my own again. There will be at least 10 on the track tomorrow so I will not be the only one out there.

After 3 days resting in Nelson I was ready to go again. Robyn and Martin had brought my box of food I had sent on to St Arnaud for pick up. They needed to come to Nelson to replace Martin’s shoes. They hitched in on Monday and we met up in town for a cup of tea.

The box of food was to have lasted me from Arnaud to Boyle Village which could take up to 8 days.

My plan meant I wouldn’t need that much so I culled some out and left it with Nigel. The chocolate stayed. This being only the second time I have carried chocolate on the whole trail. Maybe my heart needed chocolate last Friday?

Tuesday morning I was dropped off by Nigel on the main road out of town all ready to hitch hike to Lewis Pass to start the St James Walkway, which merges with the Te Araroa, after 2 days. I had decided to skip the part from St Arnaud to Anne’s Hut because it included the Waiau Pass which is said to be the riskiest part of the trail. It is very high and exposed and a couple of very long days and I didn’t want to risk my heart playing up in that kind of terrain again. Once was enough!

Fifteen minutes with my thumb out and I was picked up by a local tradesman and taken out to Wakefield about 29 km away. This reduced the number of cars on the road to mostly those heading my way.

Thirty minutes later I was in the car with Ann, a business woman heading to Christchurch. More trail magic today. Ann had tramped and cycled in the area, and had very similar life experiences to me. We talked all the way to Lewis Pass and I felt happy with my day so far.

The St James Walkway is aptly named. It really is walking, as opposed to the kind of tramping I have got used to. There is hardly any uphill and mostly just walking along flat bush tracks or across large prairie like clearings for 2 days.

Every now and then there was signs warning of avalanche risk and as looked up at the high hills I could see why. I was walking at an altitude of around 1,000 metres there would be a lot of snow in the winter.

The St James Station was purchased by the Government in 2008 to preserve the area and prevent intensive farming. The walkway was developed and it can also be used by people on horseback and mountain bikes.

I didn’t see anyone both days on the track until I arrived at the huts. The first hut was called Cannibal Hut after the Cannibal Gorge where many human bones were found probably as a result of Maori feasting on their enemies during wars 1,000 years ago. The hut was large and old and I heard rats and it was quite creepy. Not the kind of place I wanted to spend the night alone so I carried in another 1.5 hours to Ada Pass Hut.

There was one Aussie/ Kiwi girl there who was going in the opposite direction to me. We chatted a bit, ate dinner then went to bed. In the morning we found that the mice had eaten the girl’s soap. Better than her food, I suppose.

Next day I had 8 hours of rather boring walking in on and off drizzle. I stopped at Christopher hut for a lunch of hot soup and cheese and crackers to warm up. Then took off for Ann Hut really looking forward to meeting up with the Te Araroa family again.

As I walked along through long grass in flat clearings I looked up at the mountains above me. That is where the others will be coming from today..the Waiau Pass, notoriously the most dangerous and challenging day of the Te Araroa. Am I sad to have missed it? ..no not really.

My heart behaved itself so I was very relieved.

Ann Hut is only a couple of years old so double glazed and has screens on the windows. A 10 Star facility. It is at an altitude of 890 meters and is said to be the most exposed hut in New Zealand. The wind was whistling through and I had a headwind for the last 5km. So was pleased to be at the hut after 8 hours of solid fast relatively boring walking.

There was about 10 TA walkers there already including the 3 “lost ” Americans” and a couple of people who had passed me on the track the day I was in distress.

They were all happy to see me alive and well. Apparently the Waiau Pass only had a couple of tricky bits on it and was easier than the Richmond Ranges. They said it was beautiful up there. So that made me wish I had done it. Maybe on my way back home?

I washed up and had a snack then laid in my sleeping bag and watched an episode of my Netflix show. Eventually I heard Anouk’s voice. She chatted with the girls in the room for 10 minutes before she noticed me in my orange cocoon. She dived on me “da Karen, da Karen ” Dutch for “oh my god Karen”.

She was pleased to see me!

Dinner cooked with people all trying to give away food as, like me, they all had far too much. No one gives away chocolate.

I learnt a new Japanese card game…well sort of. Then off to bed feeling good to be back on trail again.

Day 100. 30 January 2020. Anne Hut to Boyle Village

We all left in dribs and drab from about 7 am onward for an 8 to 9 hour day. Boyle Village was the destination, about 30 km away. We needed to be at the Boyle Outdoor Education Centre before 5 pm when the office closed if we wanted a bed rather than tenting at the Doc Camp site. The others had all had about 8 days on trail so deserved proper beds but I decided I would join them .

I was doing well timewise and stopped at a hut for a good lunch break happy that I would make the cut off in time. I decided to try listening to a podcast while walking for the first time. Many of the others do this, or listen to music. So I listened to some research done on why people don’t always react how they expect.

However while my ears were working my legs slowed down. So I ended up trying to run the last 5km. Not very successfully mind you. After already walking 25 km and with a pack on my back this Granny was not going much faster at all.

I arrived 15 minutes later to be greeted by a slightly grumpy lady who did allow me bed in a cabin with 2 others, even though I was late. For $52 I had a bed, a ginger beer, a frozen pizza and was able to pick up my food box they had been storing for me. The advertising had me thinking I was to get an alcoholic beers and a home made pizza. The Home made meant I had to put the frozen Home brand pizza in the oven. I wasn’t

A scary hitch hike and a rest in Christchurch to avoid bad weather

Next day we checked the weather forecast to find that there was to be gale force winds and heavy rain where we were heading. This would mean that we would end up trapped in a 6 bed hut with about 12 people for 3 days waiting for the rivers to recede enough for us to cross. They may drive me mad or, more likely, I would drive them all mad.

So we all headed out hitching in different directions to take a few days break.

I got a ride with a German woman in a campervan which proved to be one of the scariest rides of the trail. She wasn’t good at keeping left, drove far too close to the vehicle in front of us and was texting on one phone and talking on another at the same time. I was worried that the stress would get my heart racing again.

So I offered to buy her lunch so we could have a break. She chose a quiche and then decided we should eat as we drove. So now she was eating, texting, talking, and looking at the scenery usually from the middle if a narrow winding main highway.

I was very happy to arrive in central Christchurch in one piece and headed to have a look at the new library which was purpose built after the earthquake. One good thing to come out of the disaster about 9 years ago.

I spent the night with my cousin Nicola and her family in Lyttleton, visiting the Saturday morning markets. Their cute little dog tried to convince me to get a dog when I finish the walk.

Now I am staying with more family, Anne and Nev, who have a dog, 3 cats and a rabbit all with free range of the house. Any thoughts about me getting a pet soon disappeared! Anouk came to stay too and added a parked up boat to her list of beds on the trail

The day started well. I stayed in my bunk and let the young ones get out of the way before I got up. I headed off alone up hill clambering over large red volcanic boulders for 15 minutes feeling ready for a relatively easy day.

However my heart began racing so fast that I couldn’t count the beats, my legs and arms were feeling wobbly and I was having trouble breathing.

I had a similar episode while tramping kn Patagonia about 10 years ago so was not too panicked in myself. I knew that laughing, coughing or getting a fright could reset my heart rate and I would be fine.

Along came Robyn and Martin then Anouk. We tried these techniques but nothing worked. So they helped me along the track to a safer area and I rested. Anouk went on ahead taking some of my gear as I didn’t want to hold her up and Robyn and Martin were going to stay with me. They were so good and patient as I needed to stop every 10 steps and lay down about every 40 step. I just couldn’t stop my heart from racing and had no energy to walk, especially uphill. The downhill bits were easier but they were quite risky so the added stress didn’t help.

They took all my gear from my pack and eventually Martin carried my pack as well.

I felt so ashamed and appalled at my body for doing this to me. I would much rather be hurt than have my body not do what it should. I have been feeling so good, strong fit and healthy and now this! I was afraid it would stop me finishing the trail.

Anyway we battled on finally reaching the Porters Creek Hut about 4.30 pm. It should have taken me about 3.5 to 4 hours and was to be my lunch stop. It had taken 9 hours.

I ate a little and laid down for an hour mostly thinking about what to do. A trip to the long drop, on 20 meters away had my heart racing again.

So after a discussion with all those present the decision was made for me to activate my Personal Locator Beacon. I was gutted and crying. Not what I wanted at all.

The rescue helicopter arrived in about 20 minutes and they said we had done the right thing. I needed to get to hospital and be checked out. So off we went for a 15 minute trip over the mountains that has taken me about 10 days to walk. I contacted my children who would have had a call from the Rescue Co-ordination Centre when the beacon was activated. I let them know I was not injured and was feeling okay.

The doctors thought I was probably dehydrated and that my electrolytes would be out of balance but that was not the case at all. All the tests came back saying things were good.

My heart settled down as they put the machines on me and took a raft of tests.

The staff were more interested in the fact that I had been walking for 92 days and in my gear. Lol. Quite a few of them were trampers and interested in the Te Araroa. I thought they should have been more interested in my heart but the machines were only showing a fit, healthy heart.

My resting heart rate was under 60 beats per minute and the test results came back saying I was all okay to go at just after midnight. I have it confirmed that I am a fit and healthy specimen.

The doctor said to have a couple of days rest then try again. He also gave me a sheet with some more techniques to help shock my heart back into a correct rhythm. So if you see me on the track blowing into a syringe for 15 seconds until I am nearly passed out, then laying down quickly with my feet in the air, don’t be alarmed.

My brother Nigel came and collected me and we made a 1.30 am trip to McDonalds as I was starving having missed dinner.

This is the 3rd time I have been rescued by helicoptor and there has been another 2 times that I called it for people in my group. So I am keeping up my Frequent Flyer Points.

I have now had three days rest in Nelson and have pushed myself up a steep set of stairs a couple of times so feel happy to ho o with my Te Araroa.

However I will not do the next section from St Arnaud to Lewis Pass it is very challenging. Instead I will walk the St James Walkway in the same area. This is at a lower level and quite a bit flatter. DOC class it as suitable for beginners so there will be more people around.

I am feeling confident that I will he okay. The previous time this happened to me was after about 10 days tramping in Patagonia about 10 years ago. This time it has taken 92 days so the odds are getting better.

Maybe I just needed some McDonald’s, a beer and a few days of good food and showers.

Watch this space

Thanks to everyone who was there to support me on the day and afterwards. Your encouragement and concern has been really appreciated.

Day 91 Slaty Hut to Little Rintoul Hut.

I left at 7.45 and Anouk just after me. She caught up about an hour down the track and we stayed together all day.

This was one of the high risk sections so I needed to have a witness in the event of me falling off the mountain. And I needed to be able to tell her parents what happened if it was her to fall. It was very rocky, high and exposed. Particularly dangerous in bad weather but it was going to be a very hot 30 degree day.

I was not actually afraid but we were both happier to have eachother around. Anouk helped me on some of the trickiest sections where it was hard to gauge the best place to place my feet. Not for the faint hearted at all! This is the trail notes for the section.

It was probably about 30 degrees up there all day. Very, very hot work and we needed to carry a lot of water which adds to the weight on our backs.

The notes said 4 hours to Old Man Hut turnoff but we did it in 3.5. It was a hot day of climbing up steep ridges and then down the other side then up again just to go down and up again. If we were in most countries there would be a gondola.

We reached the highest peak for the day – Mt Rintoul – 1730 meters above sea level feeling very pleased with ourselves and in awe of the views. This country is magnificent. Amazing views for miles.

I sent off some messages of joy and relief when we reached the summit. We stripped off our sweaty clothes and enjoyed the views and our sense of achievement for quite some time. However the most difficult parts were to come. Going down is trickier than going up. But we managed.

We arrived at Mt Rintoul hut 9 hours later to be cheered in by the others. Everyone was pleased to see we had all made it through one of the most dangerous days of the trail. Probably 40% of the day we could easily have tumbled down the mountain if we put a foot wrong.

Day 91 . To Mid Wairoa Hut. 9 hours

This was a really nice day for me. I walked on my own but played leap frog with a young swiss couple, a kiwi couple, Anouk a Bulgarian and German girl. We all stopped for lunch at the cute little Tarn Hut and gave our arms a good workout chasing off the sandflies. I hung out my sleeping bag and tent to dry as the nights have been very hot and still. The humidity causes condensation to collect in the tent even with the doors open all night, especially when camping near water. But it is a good excuse for a decent lunch break.

A tarn is a mountain lake. There is no river coming in or out of it, it is basically a big puddle high up on a mountain. Unfortunately it is also a breeding ground for sandflies.

Today I had only a short ascent, some time out on the tops then a big long decent. About 1,200 metres over 4km. It was mostly through forest so at least I was in the shade for most of the day.

Yesterday I had not worn my sun hat as I needed all fields of vision at all times because of the difficult terrain. As a result the top of my head got sun burnt. A bit ouchy when I run my fingers through it as my way of brushing my hair.

My innersoles had finally disintegrated so I conned a nice young man into letting me lighten his load by cutting some out if his sleeping mat.

The hut was a tiny 4 bunk that was very hot with 10 or so people in there, especially in my full anti sandfly merino outfit. The bug net was the envy of all the campers.

So I cooked outside then got into the tent as quickly as possible trying desperately not to bring too many in with me. I killed about 50 of the little buggers before eating my dinner.

So here I am in my tent at 6pm at Mid Wairoa Hut. This is the only place to be safe from the millions of sandflies here. Such a shame as it is a pretty spot beside a clear green river with a great swimming hole. The best I could do was a quick wash and change into my anti sandfly outfit.

I have told the overseas people that God made New Zealand then realised it was perfect, just like Heaven. As there couldn’t be a Heaven in earth he decided to add just a tiny wee nuisance to the place. The sandfly. However I don’t think he realised how well the little creatures breed and how annoying their bites are.

That night we had an earthquake that made everyone rather uneasy and the mice were at us again. Some were scuttling around under my tent so I was wacking them with my sandal. They seemed to get the message and went onto other tents. It hadn’t long before the Swiss girl was screeching as two had eaten onto her tent and were knawing away at her food in her pack. Maybe mice are another of God’s little annoying creatures.

There was nothing I could do so I put my eye mask on, ear plugs in and bug net over my head and went to sleep.

Day 92. 23 Jan 2020. Reached the 1,900 km mark. To Hunters Hut

Another long hard, hot day to come. We arrived at hut and decided to have a 2 hour break to keep out of the mid day sun. Martinand Robyn, the Swiss/ Kiwi couple did the same. The young ones had a gone on ahead in the heat of the day..mad!

During the morning the track had us following a river which entailed about 8 decent river crossings, clambering up and down banks and a lot of dodgy sidling. The forest was also alive with wasps. Anouk stepped over a nest hole in the ground right in the middle of the track. The wasps were not impressed and dozens came flying out sounding very angry at the disturbance. I was only 2 steps behind her so took the brunt if their discontent by stinging me about 6 times. We took off along the track and dealt to the stings and I took an anti histamine tablet. Damn things

The river crossings cooled us off a bit and provided lovely fresh cool water to drink, however we couldn’t hang around too long to enjoy it because of the bloody sandflies. grrrrr

We had a 2 hour lunch break, dried tents etc. then headed off for another section described as very challenging. Martin and Robyn joined us so we were 4. Robyn wasn’t keen on doing another hard stretch so Anouk and I did our best to help her along and keep her distracted with out chatter. The day does go faster and easier if there is something else to concentrate on rather than the heat, pain and difficult terrain.

We reached the 1,900 km mark today feeling happy to be alive and in such a beautiful place.

We arrived at Hunters Hut at 8.30 that night. We were all tired and a little grumpy as it was 13 hours since we had set out that morning. There was very little flat space to put up our tents so I opted to take the last bunk bed in the hut. Bugger the creatures, I needed to eat quickly and get to sleep.

The other people at the hut were already in bed when we arrived so we quickly cooked instant noodles and got into bed. A big day over and we all survived without mishap again. Happy if not exhausted.

So I start the real Richmond Ranges today. Nigel dropped Anouk and I at the Hacket Picnic area and we were off.

We arrived at Hacket Hut 1.5 hours later to find an American couple had lost their hiking buddy, Wit, the previous day and asked us to look out for him.

The notes said 4 hours to Starvel Hut for 6km, and a 1,600m climb so we knew it was going to be steep. Anouk went ahead and I played leapfrog all day with 4 others on the track. I arrived in 3 hrs 15 minutes feeling very happy with myself. The lost hiking buddy had made it to this hut the previous night so everyone was relieved. There is plenty of time to let your imagination run wild whilst you are puffing up a hill.

Shoes and wet sweaty shirt off, and lunch made. A wrap with salami, cheese and carrot. Scrumptious. After about an hour chilling out in the sun everyone began to leave for the next hut.

Anouk and I were last to leave. Our home for the night was only 2.5 hours away up a really steep and exposed section. We were now really in the mountains.

We saw Mt Taranaki and had amazing views down both sides of the island. We were up high and the view had us both in tears. This is why we do this. Being able to see nothing but nature, mountains, deep valleys, bush and rocks makes me feel both insignificant and important at the same time.

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Dinner was cooked and eaten outside with 4 others as the Americans had carried on for another 5 hours to the next hut. Some of these young ones are on very tight timetables and are madder than me.

The night of the mice.

I decided to sleep in the hut that night with 3 others but didn’t get much sleep at all. I dropped off quickly listening to a podcast but was awakened by scratching in my pack that was beside my bed. We had all hung our food bags up on hooks on the ceiling but I had some snacks in a pocket on my pack so thought the mouse was after them. So I chased him away but as soon as I was quiet he came back rusting away. I then remembered the big bag of potato chips on the back of my pack. Yes there was a hole in the corner.  I wasn’t sure if the mouse was in  the bag or not so I got up and took it outside and put it on a bush. I put the snacks in my food bag and moved my pack away from me.   But the rustling continued. I shone my torch at the packs and mice scuttled away numerous times through the night.  One even came up on my bed and tried to take my silicon earplug. Note to self..sleep in tent from now on.

Anouk heard all the commotion but the other 2 slept through it all. Next day one of the girls found that the mice had got into her pack and eaten all her snacks. Cheeky buggers.

I had a sleep in as we only had a 3 hour walk out to Hacket Picnic area where Nigel was to pick us up. So I had my coffee and muesli in bed after the other 2 girls had left to carry on through the ranges. I should have asked them to prepare my breakfast for me as it is not quite the same when you have to get up to make it yourself and trudge 50 meters to an insect filled toilet before going back to your sleep in. I must try and find better class of hotel.

The Dutchies arrived having had a good night under the stars and said they had woken up in the fog. The point they camped on was 980 meters above sea level so to be expected this far South.

We had a lovely walk out on a very busy Saturday. Lots of family groups and dogs were walking along the track going to swimming holes, up to the huts and to picnic spots. It is only about 20 minutes drive from Nelson and a great place to spend a hot sunny day.

There were a few slips and some tricky river crossings but all in all a lovely track and so nice to see so many people.

I sat for a bit waiting for Nigel chasing off the sandflies and Wekas.

Day 89. Resupply for next 24 days.

I had a list of things to do on my Sunday off and they took all day. Nigel came grocery shopping with me and enjoyed the process of choosing the lightest and best food value items to pack. 3 supermarkets on a busy Sunday morning took us a couple if hours. His wife commented that she cant get him to come shopping with her gir that long.

Nigel also found and fixed the slow leak that had been plaguing me for the last week.

Then I spent the afternoon removing all the unnecessary packaging and sorting it into 3 piles of 8 days supplies. One to take with me, one to send to St Arnaud and the next one to Boyle Village on the Lewis Pass.

They weighed about 5kg each so the most food I have taken so far. Add up to 5 litres of water on some of the days and I will be at my maximum weight.

We are now heading into the highest peaks of the trail (up to 1,800 metres, alpine conditions )and some of the most dangerous parts. A few people have decided to skip these sections but I reckon I will be okay. Take it easy and carefully and keep good people around me is my plan.

I can do this.

I got a lift from Glenis and Tim from Havelock to Pelorus Bridge on my Day 85 so I have another 20km to make up at some stage. We also transported another TA hiker who needed to let a toe heal for another day, and the packs belonging to the Dutch parents. Thanks Trail Angels Glenis and Tim.

I spent the afternoon exploring the area which has some good swimming and camping spots and day walks. The carparks were full and I had morning coffee, lunch and afternoon tea at the cafe. In between I lay on the grass by the river and read a book. Now that was a really good rest day.

The rest of the crew arrived in dribs and drab over the afternoon.

Day 86 To Captains Creek Hut in Richmond Forest Hill Park. 1,825 km completed

As usual I was awake and up and away first. We usually go to bed about 8pm so by 5am I have had enough of laying in my tent. So I may as well get up and see the sunrise and get ready for the day.

I left at 7.30am and walked along a  lonely country road until 11 am 14km. It was a bit chilly when I started but by 10.30 the sun was scorching. So I had an early lunch in the shade before heading into the Richmond Hill Forest Park.

A young, fast German girl, Elli, and a young man overtook me as I walked alongside the Pelorus River for 4 hours. It was very pretty, the greenest river I have ever seen. I wondered what makes it green. The water isn’t green when I fill my drink bottle from the river so what makes it green? Can someone Google it for me?

The track wound up and down but only about 400 meter climbs at any stage so an easy day really. There was a short swing bridge to cross that was a little hard to get on and off, but as there was no wind it didn’t swing too much. There were a few places that would have resulted in a chopper ride out if I had got my footings wrong but I managed okay.

Maybe 3 months ago I may have thought it was a hard day but now I am feeling invincible. Well, not quite but definitely fitter, faster, stronger and more confident than I have been for years.

Arriving at Captains Creek Hut I saw that the two who had passed me had carried on as the next hut was only 2.5 hours ahead. I was happy to call it quits for the day and found one of the few flat spots to put up my tent as the hut didn’t look too inviting.

I went down to the river for a swim but chickened out and just had a wash then quickly dressed as the sandflies began to circle.

8 other TA hikers arrived over the next 3.5 hours. They all looked exhausted and pleased to have survived the day. I had dragged a mattress out of the hut, put on my bug net and was reading a book I found in the hut. A little bird came and visited me.

It had obviously been a shared book as it was a pile of loose pages that I needed to put in order before beginning to read. This is what happens when there is only one book and numerous people who want to read. The first person reads a page then rips it out and passes it on to the next person, who passes it on to another one. This way numerous people can share a book.

Everyone was getting really annoyed with the sandflies so it was early to bed. Our tents have bug nets but some of the little bastards seem to find a way in no matter how fast we zip and unzip. So we all played squash the sandflies before settling down for the night. The ones that spurt blood have bitten you.

The sign said 2.5 hours to Middy Hut and another 3 to Rocks Hut, then 4.5 hours to Brownings Hut. A 10 hour day but it would make the next day shorter and I had a 4pm pickup that day.

The notes showed that it was steep and rocky so I had a bit of a sleep in after deciding I was best to have some company a bit closer today. There was 4 swing bridges to cross but I am now doing them very confidently after doing some work on my subconscious.

I was still first to leave but soon overtaken by a kiwi lad and the the fast young German girl. The track was nice through beech Forest and I was making good time getting to Middy hut in just 2 hours. As I was decendung to the hut I heard a man calling out. At first I thought it was whoops of joy at reaching the hut but the calls continued. They sounded as though they were ahead of me so i had a quick lou break then carried on uphill as fast as I could thinking someone was in distress. Was it the Kiwi lad? I couldn’t actually go any faster than my usual pace but the calls continued for about 30 minutes until I then heard a helicopter in the distance. Not ahead if me but behind me. As soon as I heard the helicopter the calls ceased. Maybe I was hearing the echo and the calls were coming from behind me.

Okay I thought, the person had set off their beacon and was now waiting quetly for rescue. The helicopter seemed quite a long way from me and didn’t appear to hang around long. Maybe it was some of the ones coming in behind me. Or someone in another track maybe.

Anyway I eventually arrived at Rocks Hut to find the kiwi lad and the German girl were already there and all okay.

I decided to stay until the others arrived to make sure they were alright. So I hung out my tent, sleeping bag and sweaty clothes  in the sun, ate my lunch then settled down for a nana nap.

Eventually the others all arrived. Some had heard the calls and helicopter but thought they were in another direction. I will see what I can find out when I get to town.

We left at  3.30 pm with 4.5 hours to go. We being German Anouk and her parents who were on the last days of their 3 weeks hiking with their daughter.  I have been meeting up each evening with them since before Wellington and enjoy their company. The parents will end their hiking in Nelson so will pop out the same way as me and get a ride into town with me by my brother, Nigel

We passed through a huge area if storm damaged trees. Massive amounts of trees were down like pick up sticks. A track had been cut through them but it was still a bit of a scramble under over and around. I was glad to have company.

About 4km from the hut we came to a clearing with amazing views over the Richmond Ranges and down to the Tasman Bay. The Dutchies decided to camp for the night and enjoy their last night together in the wilderness under the stars.

I carried on down hill to the hut taking another 1.5 hours and arriving at 8pm. I decided to sleep in the hut with 2 other TA hikers but in hindsight I should have put up my tent.

The hut was frequented by sandflies, noisy mosquitoes, and rats scratching in the ceiling. The mossies were the most annoying as I can hear them even with my earplugs in. At least in my tent I can kill them off before I sleep and then know I am safe for the night.

They say that the sandflies double in number and size every 100 km as we go down the South Island. Looking at the size of the ones here I reckon this is not just a myth. They were huge.