Lady Anne Clifford was born in Skipton Castle in 1590 and her Mother insisted that she be educated, which was unusual in those days. Her father died when she was a teenager, and as her 3 brothers had also died, she expected to inherit her father’s vast estates.
However they were left to her Uncle. She fought in the courts for many years to get ownership of the properties, even marrying a lawyer, to help. He lost all the appeals too. Eventually, in 1643 she did inherit because her Uncle had no surviving male heirs and her 3 sons had died.
She used her enormous wealth to restore the castles and halls and do a lot of charity work; building safe houses for women. One in Applyby still operates today.
Lady Anne’s Way follows the path she took as she made her rounds of her 90,000 acres of properties. Apparently her favorite method of travel was laying in a hammock slung between 2 horses. I am quite sure she didn’t have to climb 20 or so stiles a day, like we had to.
On the first day stopped for lunch at Barden Tower, which was one of hers, and ate the packed lunch supplied by Amanda and Duncan in the sun.
Day one was 24km through some gorgeous little villages, slightly rolling hills in bright sun. It was a hot day in England, and as we followed a river, we came across many people picnicking, swimming, kayaking, and walking with their dogs, of course.
We stopped about a mile from Grassington, which is where the series “All Creatures Great and Small” was filmed. We pitched our tents on the banks of the river. The water is not clear blue or green like NZ rivers, it more resembles a good pale ale. I wonder if it is tanin from the peat or because of the cows having access to the river? I boil the water.
A few people were still out walking their dogs and they all gave a friendly greetings making us feel confident we weren’t causing any issues
A herd of cows wandered past having a look at my couscous and pork pie dinner. They weren’t interested, which was good because I wasn’t about to share with them. Kay is the designated animal whisperer and does a very good job.
We watched the ducks and birds getting their dinner from the river and a squirrel running around on the riverbank, looking like he had lost his watch.
After a wash in the river, we were in our tents by 7.30. I have crappy romance novel to read – light with big print is my measure of a good book when hiking.
The herd of cows that had passed us at dinner time returned just as I was falling asleep. They were so close to the tent that I could hear them ripping the grass and chewing it. I could also hear their stomachs rumbling and their farting.
Hearing Kay snoring from her tent I knew I had to be brave and deal with the animals myself. So I lifted thd sides of my tent being careful not to scare them. I didn’t want them to run into my tent while I was stuck inside.
They weren’t really interested in us at all, so I tried to ignore their noises and go to sleep. I wasn’t very successful. However, I must have dropped off to sleep because when I awoke at 4.30 am, all except one cow were curled up asleep near us. In the morning Kay said she hadn’t heard a thing.
Paul and I used to take Ellie to Grassinton when we walked the dales in winter, he recommends the local brew Theakstons Old Peculier. Drink a pint of that and you too won’t hear another sound all night. 🤣stay safe
I enjoyed the story of Lady Anne and the rest of your diary so far