Author: Karen Griffiths

We started our day with a 24km water taxi ride we shared with the Finnish couple. We meandered through the beautiful Bay of Islands which really impressed me. I didn’t know it was so beautiful up here and kept thinking I was in South East Asia or Australia.

Most of the Te Araroa walkers kayak the route but Frances has done a lot of kayaking so I deferred to her decision to take the taxi instead. 3 or 4 hours of paddling in the sea doesn’t sound easy to me.

Having not been up here before I was in awe of all the expensive looking houses and boats around the bays. The trees growing in the water reminded me of Northern Queensland so I kept expecting to see crocodiles.

After about an hour we arrived at Waikare and jumped off the boat. We were really in the back blocks. On our 4 km gravel road we saw at least 8 abandoned cars with wheels and any other usable parts removed and windows all smashed. It looked as though they had broken down and just been left there to die a long and torturous death. There were many rundown houses with a series of decrepit looking shacks and caravans in close vicinity, with piles of rusty old washing machines, fridges and farming equipment strewn around. There was often angry dogs prowling around with young kids playing among them. So this is how many New Zealanders live in the Far North. It saddened me. We saw a mum driving with a child standing in the front seat which is something I haven’t seen for 50 years. I felt this was more the reality of life in this area than the posh houses and boats.

Following in the footsteps of the Finnish couple we then entered a stream which we walked up for about 2 hours. There were no naked young men this time so we managed to keep our clothes on all the way. The rocks were a different colour than our last river walk carrying on with the “no two days are the same” theme.

By 1pm we were at a campsite which we had to ourselves as the others were carrying on for another 5 or so hours. We are in no hurry so glad of a short day. Hot soup and sandwiches filled us up and warmed our feet.

Yoga and stretches and a snooze in the sun was followed by humus and crackers for afternoon tea. THIS IS THE LIFE. I can’t even imagine going back to sitting in front of a computer all day.

We have decided to sleep out on the bench seats of the shelter tonight. Neither of us had looked at the weather forecast but it is a 4 sided shelter so we can move around if the weather turns during the night. There is a bird’s nest up in the roof with a mother bird sitting happily on her eggs to watch over us. There is also a lot of evidence that pigs have been rooting around so I hope they they friendly ones.

I read out my friend Royce Mills diary of her 5 days of the Te Araroa in the Tararuas. It made for interesting reading of what is to come. Different again.

The birdlife is abundant here which is a nice change. Frances has been able to identify tuis, swallows, bellbirds and kingfishers. There are a lot of tuis and they appear to be mating as there are pairs chasing each other around.

Just as our dehydrated dinners were ready young Josh turned up minus his girlfriend. After we quizzed him (poor guy) we found out that they have decided to go alone for a while.

He was pleased to gave a hot chocolate made for him as he had walked all the way from Paihia, remembering we took a water taxi for about 24km.

He hadn’t done too well out of the split up. He got  the tent, a nearly empty gas bottle but no cooker, pot, plate or cup. He did have a spoon, small bag of instant mashed potatoes, a sachet of soup and a bar of peppermint chocolate.

This needed to last him for the next 5 days so we advised him to get out to the road and hitch hike into Wangarei to get himself set up.

Day 17. 31/10/19. To Helena Bay 18 km mostly road walking.

A relatively easy day starting with a walk along a wide bush track and then road to Helena Bay. It was hot and we daydreamed of icecream all day. The only shop we passed was closed down but we sat outside in the shade and ate our crackers with avocado and hummus for lunch.

Again we were confronted with the lives of the locals in this part of the country. Run down shacks surrounded by sleep outs and caravans. Life looks quite relaxed and it would not be too hard to keep up with the Jones’s. There are always a few rusty old cars there and a patch of old fridges, washing machines and piles of other rubbish. The area is well known for its marijuana growing so we kept very much to the trail so as not to get too close to anyone’s crops.

After 5 hours of walking along the road of hot melting tar under the hot sun we came to the Helena Bay turnoff. There was a relocated house which some guys were working on. We gave them a friendly wave and one came over to chat. It was Dave, the Trail Angel that Frances had made previous contact with about a place to stay. Trail Angels are people who take in hikers for the night. Frances had rung ahead to ask for accommodation. I asked if there was an ice-cream shop nearby. No luck, so I asked if there was pub. Again the answer was no. The deflated look on our faces must have been very obvious as the lovely man quickly pulled 2 Lion Brown beers from his chilli bin.   That is a true trail Angel.

So we sat in the shade and drank our beers while they finished up their job. We piled to his van and drove up the road to the home built cottage he shares with Alex. She arrived shortly from Auckland where she works 4 days a week as an art therapist.

They cooked a roast dinner for us and we enjoyed lively conversation with them before heading to our tents at 7pm.

I have had a lot of backpackers through my home over the years so it was a nice change for me to be on the receiving end of the good kiwi hospitality.

Day 18. 1 Nov. The day of the styles. To Whananaki. 9.5 hours.

Today we walked 24 km in 9.5 hours to Whananaki Beach climbing up and over at least 20 styles. This was also a day where every hour was different. We went up and down all day, with some very steep ascents and descents punctuated by some reasonably flattish bits. It was warm but we has some times on the tops where it was very windy.

We walked mostly through privately owned land which was well marked. Everytime we came to a fence there was a style, at least 20, which is a record for one day. We grunt and grumble as we heave ourselves and our packs up and over them. Actually getting down off them can produce more f*n and bliming than getting up.

After another climb we finally spot the Pacific Ocean in the distance, so blue and welcoming after days inland.

We started the day with a fit looking young Dutch couple who we have been meeting up with every few days. We were proud to say that we arrived before them, even if we were both absolutely knackered. We had already eaten the icecream and bought a bottle of beer before they arrived. Not too bad really.

I don’t like dogs so whenever we come across them I hide behind Frances as she is farm bred and more used to dogs. That rule suited me fine today as she got a little bite from a dog this morning.

There are a lot of properties in Northland that are guarded by vicious dogs: probably to keep people away from their marijuana crops. The climate is very temperate so good for growing many different crops, legal and illegal. 3.6 million trays of Kiwifruit are exported each years as well as a citrus fruits and avocados.

Taximan was here to give us a big hug when we arrived and he has now passed on to us the Taxi moniker because we got the water taxi. For TA walkers a cabin was the same price as a tent site and we received a free can of soft drink so we took advantage of the offer. Unfortunately the cheap bunk beds are not very good for ones posture so by the morning we had taken the mattresses off the beds and were sleeping on the floor. It had been a long hot day so we were pleased to have a shower and wash out our walking clothes.

We started on the West Coast of New Zealand and have now walked over to the East Coast. It is not quite the same as going from West to East of USA but an achievement for a couple of oldies like us.

Last night we had a fun  evening with the 2 Aussie ladies and gained a good insite into the problems our overseas hikers have with the trail. Unlike us, they could not even imagine what our tracks can be like and found some of the same issues we are having with the trail notes.

They are going to make contact with the TA Trust and give some feedback to them.

My new air mattress was heaven so I managed to get a reasonable nights sleep so woke feeling a lot less grumpy than I had been feeling.

It was drizzling when we left at 8 am so off we went looking like a marshmallow and an orange in our ponchos.  But it was warm as the trail took us via The Old Stone Store down by the wharf then out of town past posh houses with gates that cost about the price of an average house in Palmerston North. Lots of development going on, a nice new footpath for us but no public toilets yet.

So we raced on holding our pee and made a mad rush to find a toilet bush as entered the Waitangi Forest. We didn’t care too much about the sign warning us that there were surveillance cameras in operation. When you gotta go, you gotta go!

The next 14 km was along forestry tracks with many mountain bike tracks crisscrossing through the forest. Not much else to report about that part of the day except a yummy lunch of cold toast with avocado, carrot and Parmesan cheese was had on the edge of the track.

We came across a plaque commemorating the opening of this first link track of the TA by the Prime Minister at the time, Jim Bolger. He was a keen tramper and advocate for the Te Araroa as was Helen Clarke who lead the country a couple of years after him. . We were lucky to have them supporting the trail. There was also a sculpture which creeped us both out so much that we couldn’t even take a photo of it. It reminded me of the piles of skulls I saw in Cambodia left after the killings by Pol Pot regime. I am obviously not very artistic!

When we hit the road Frances went in one direction as she was going straight to Paihia to do a few jobs. I got a lift for the last couple of km and arrived at Waitangi the same time as Josh (aka naked young German fella from the river) and his girlfriend. I had a quick coffee with them and I was off to look around. We have to be a bit careful about entering cafes as hikers can get a bit smelly, but I was in only 1 day old clothing so okay.

I wanted to go to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds to see one of New Zealand’s most significant historic places. The museum and the treaty house were interesting and I spent quite some time in there as I had never been here before. The Treaty is an agreement made in 1840 between representatives of the British Crown and more than 500 Māori chiefs. It resulted in the declaration of British sovereignty over New Zealand. In more recent years this has caused some unrest among our people.

Then I walked along the pretty coastal path to Paihia to meet up with Frances at the YHA Hostel. Proper bed tonight and fish’n’chips for tea and Movenpic ice-cream for dessert so I am feeling a bit spoiled. Being one of the biggest tourist towns in the Bay of Islands it was busy and there was lots of boats in the pretty harbour.

We are both sure we have lost at least 2kg in weight since we started. We are feeling stronger each day and must be getting fitter.  Frances now wearing  matching knee braces from the $2 Shop to keep her aching knees in check. Our little toe blisters from Ninety Mike Beach have healed and all and all we are bearing up as good  if not better, than the young ones on the trail.

A 5 star night. The basic bunk bed seemed to fit my dicky hip so I slept well for the first time on the trail.

We left with Mark for a 26 km day along the beautiful coast line. This was probably one of the easiest days trackwise. A bit of road, a bit of farm and some relatively easy bush ridges. So a long 9 hour day but not much concentration needed. So we chatted all day.

Some days we have had to watch every footstep which is hard on the mind, so today was good.

The Dutch couple played leapfrog with us and we all arrived in Ngarunga within a short time of each other. We climbed only 12 styles today and annoyed Mark by counting them.

We sat outside a small shop at Ngarunga waiting for James who Frances had booked a boat ride across the estuary with. A man came out of the shop with a bag of carrots and offered us one. I love my carrots so was only to pleased to choose the biggest one for myself. His wife was sitting in the car watching this but held up a bottle of wine and smiled so as to say, “You are welcome to the carrot, I have the wine” We had already found some space in our full packs for a couple of bottle of beer.

Eventually James little tin boat could be heard so we walked our way over the mudflats to a boat ride to our camp for the night. The mud was heaven on our feet and the camp good for the mind. Nikau Bay Camp is right on the trail, very tidy and with everything we needed.

Our first sawdust toilet.

We had a big planning session because the next day we had about 3km of estuary to cross. (To be honest I wasn’t actually involved as Frances us in charge if directions). We needed to time it with the tides so that we didn’t end up with water up to our necks. I was a little nervous about the coming day.

Day 20. Mud, mangroves but no crocodiles.

We were up at 4.45am and on the road an hour later with the Dutch couple. Mark had left earlier as he was going further than us that day.

Captain Frances set the pace for the first 10km as we needed to make it to the estuary bt 9.30 at the latest.

When we walk along the roads I take one for the team by wearing my personally modified Hi Viz vest over my pack. Some of these roads have no shoulders so are a bit scary. Frances does the dogs and I do the traffic. You can make up your mind who has got the best deal.

We made it by 9am and I was well ready to slow down. We had walked very fast going up and over a reasonable sized hill with full packs on got me sweating and puffing. I hope I get fitter as the trail goes on. The Dutch couple caught up making comments about how fast were were which made us feel good. So far I am the oldest on the trail.

Then we were into the mud following marker poles for 3 km and the footprints left by Mark. By pole 5 we could see Mark ahead going off route and round in circles so we had a good look and took the correct route.  I have not seen mangroves like this in New Zealand before and they reminded me of Northern Queensland. So I had one eye out for crocodiles  while we sloshed through the mud and water up to my thighs at the highest.

Frances and I peeled off to go the Tidesong camp for the night as we liked the name and didn’t want a really long day. We arrived at 10am and it was a good choice as we were welcomed by Hugh and Ros with coffee and cake.

Our cabin is in the bush with a hot shower and flowers in our room. A wee spot of paradise with birds singing and sheep barring. Hugh told us that he and Ros have completed most if the trail between them. They did thus after Ris donated a kidney to Hugh to show that there is life after a transplant. Hugh shared some of his interesting stories with us while we sipped his coffee.

Retired farmers they are both active members of the Te Araroa Trust and work to help keep the trail going.  There are many people like them throughout the country whom I am very grateful to.

We had a relaxing day after having shower with a decent piece of soap and a towel that was bigger than an average hankie. 5 star…we are easily pleased.

An afternoon snooze and a list was made for shopping and things to do in Whangarei which will be our next stop.

I even had time to catch up on 3 episodes of Coronation Street. Sinead is about to die…so sad.

Day 1 –  12 km – 4 hours – Beach – Gale

 A short, but eventful day: weather wise anyway. We shared a ride to the Cape with a young Aussie woman named Georgia.  We welcomed her to walk with us for the first day so we set off in a gale.  The obligatory photos at the lighthouse was quite difficult as we struggle to stay upright but we were all hyped up and ready for our long journey.    The tide was rising when we reached the beach so we spent some time perched up on rocks in the wind and rain waiting for a safe passage. `  

It was a short day (12Km) but we were all very glad to see the stairs that took us off the beach to the Twilight Beach Campsite.  It was a baptism of fire for the three of us putting our tents up in a gale with the rain lashing down. we did this in front of the other 5 people who had arrived before us but were already making hot drinks in the shelter.  

Dinner was cooked and people were heading into the warmth and comfort of their tents and sleeping bags by 5.30pm.  Our first day was over.  We were all a happy, tired bunch of people from all around the world. 

Day 2 – Twighlight Beach Campsite to Maunganui Bluff Campsite 28 km – 8 hours – Beach – Strong Wind

I didn’t sleep much that night due to a hip that doesn’t worry me all day until I lay down, but no-one slept well through the wet and windy night. All the tents passed the test of a good New Zealand gale so we were all happy to get on with the next day.

The rats had eaten my 5 days of scroggins but left the stale bun and banana skins…fussy critters.

The first couple of hours was through sand hills in the rain and wind and then onto the beach. Because of the impending high tide, Francis took the lead and dragged us along at a fast pace. Some of those behind us had to make mad dashes up into the sand hills so were pleased in the end.

We managed to find two separate rests stops in the sand hills away from the wind and had some time to get to know each other and rest the feet. Throughout the day we overtook and were overtaken by other hikers and a chat was good to break the monotony of the flat, wind swept sandy beach. 28 km on sand is hard work!

There is nothing, hardly even a log to break the monotony. We did see a puffer fish and a dead shark and quite a few blue bottles.

There was about 15 of us there that night , Austrian, Dutch, Aussie, Israeli, Germany and three of us Kiwis. I organised a exercise session after dinner which was well attended, We shared our pieces of equipment and knowledge and all went off to be feeling happy about our day if not a bit sore.

Day 3- To Utea Park 31 km – 8.5 hours – Beach – Wind side on.

I was awoken by a herd of wild horses sniffing at my tent, but it was time to get up and go as we had a 31 km day ahead. Georgia was really tired and didn’t think she could make the next camp so we went back to good tramping routine of walk for an hour then have a 5 minute break, a longer morning and afternoon tea break and a decent lunch break. So we managed to get her through the day.

Foot yoga at lunch time helped trick our feet into thinking they were just starting the day. Taking our shoes off and massaging our feet enabled us to find the hot spots and deal with them before they got too bad. A bit of “toe jam” added to the flavour of our wraps and cheese.

I enjoyed the meeting up with others as we made our way along the long boring beach., some people were struggling with blisters and sore muscles but I was feeling really good. We played some games to pass the time and shared our stories.

We camped at Utea Park with a couple who have opened there property to TA walkers. They had a beer and hot showers ready for us as we dragged each other to the end of the day, our minds and bodies were ragged. We all appreciated arriving in the sun instead of rain.

There was a good crew there for the night so some more exercises, attending feet and meeting new people.

Day 4 – To Ahipara – 32 km – 9 hours – Beach – Tail wind and overcast (Perfection!) Total 101.5km

We all expected this to be a hard, long day especially those with sore feet, knees and backs. I was feeling really good, much better than the kiwi lad we came across who was tapping pipi shells onto his feet to try and aleviate the pain in his arches. He had been wearing sandals, as has the Isralie couple, who we had now lost due to horrific blisters. But the good Kiwi Lad used his ingenuity and hobbled in an hour or so after us that day but in time to join us for the evening entertainment.

Our lunch break was had with Ralph from Austria who joined in with our Foot Yoga session and walked to the end with us. We picked up a few more on the way and it was a bedraggled looking bunch who posed for the 100 km mark photo, Then we hobbled the last couple of kms to the Apihara Holiday Park, complaining that the shop was 1.5 km away

We treated ourselves to a Backpackers cabin and those who were tenting came to join us for our now infamous exercise and foot clinic session. We must have sounded funny to anyone coming past as we moaned and groaned through our stretches and then sat in a line massaging each other. Lots of laughs before bed. So much fun and a great way to get to know each other.

I didnt sleep well again even though I was in proper bed as my hip pained me. However exhaustion hit at about 5 am and I was last up at 10 am.

Day 5- Zero Day = Rest Day 0 km – Lovely sunny day

We washed our clothes, tidied our gear and planned our next session. Then we happily wandered the 1.5km to the shops to get food for a shared dinner and enjoy a big feed of fish’n’chips to get the overseas visitors into the swing of how we do things here. I love this life!!!